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é pan generously with olive oil and bring it to high heat, almost smoking. Coat the UNDERNEATH of another smaller sauté pan with olive oil. Place the fish fillets skin side down in the larger pan and gently place the other sauté pan directly on top of the fish. The purpose of this is to gently press the skin of the fish onto the bottom of the larger pan to create a lovely, even, crispy skin. (The first thing fish skin wants to do is stick to the pan, and the first thing cooks want to do is move it. Resist the urge; it will unstick itself when it’s ready. This is where patience comes in—if you try to move it before it’s ready, the fish skin will win every time.)

3 After a couple minutes, remove the top sauté pan to allow the steam to escape and the skin to get really crispy. As the fish cooks it turns from translucent to opaque—the idea is to cook the fish two-thirds of the way through on the skin side and then flip it over for the last third of the cooking time. The rule for fish is 7 to 8 minutes per inch of thickness, a little less if you like your fish on the rare side.

Now that’s a crispy fish tale!

Halibut in Paper with Yummy Summer Veg

SERVES: 4 • TIME: ABOUT 30 MINUTES

Fish in paper is a classic preparation that will totally make you feel like a rock star in the kitchen. It’s super-easy and it’s all about the presentation. All you have to do is toss some veggies and white fish in a parchment package along with some wine, and let them steam themselves. When your guests open their packages, they get a big burst of aromatic vapor and a lovely piece of gently cooked fish on perfectly cooked veggies. Just remember that because you seal the packages, you only get one shot to season everything—if you miss your opportunity then this will taste like a diet dish. You have to season well BEFORE you seal the deal.

MISE EN PLACE

2 zucchini, green part only, julienned

¼ pound haricots verts, sliced on the bias

2 plum tomatoes, seeded, guts removed, and julienned

½ red onion, thinly sliced

1 clove garlic, smashed and finely chopped

Pinch of crushed red pepper

Extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves

Kosher salt

1 lemon, sliced

4 6-ounce halibut fillets

1 cup dry white wine

1 Preheat the oven to 500°F.

2 Fold four 9 × 13-inch pieces of parchment paper in half. Starting at the top of the fold, cut each piece into a large half heart shape (takes you back to Valentine’s Day in school, doesn’t it?). When the papers are opened, they should be the shape of full hearts. If they’re not perfect, that’s okay, but a big heart is always better.

3 In a large bowl, combine the zucchini, haricots verts, tomatoes, onion, garlic, and red pepper. Toss with olive oil and season with the thyme and salt. Oil and salt the halibut as well. This is the only chance to season the veggies and the fish, so take advantage of it! Taste the veggies; they should taste good. If not, adjust the seasoning.

4 Open the parchment paper hearts and brush the paper with olive oil, leaving a 1-inch border.

5 Divide the seasoned veggies evenly between the parchment hearts, then lay the fish on top and place two lemon slices on top of each fillet. Close the paper in half over the fish. Working from one end of the parchment to the other, fold the bottom of the paper over the top to create a closure. The seal needs to be really secure so the steam won’t escape during the cooking process. Before the package is completely sealed, carefully pour an equal amount of wine into each and complete the enclosure. Put the packages on a baking sheet and cook for 8 to 9 minutes.

6 Remove the packages from the oven and place each one on a serving dish. Give each diner the chance to slice open their own package so they can enjoy the burst of aromatic steam that will be released—it’s like a fish facial!

I heart you!

Parchment is traditional here, but you can use aluminum foil to wrap your fish and it will be just fine—even easier to seal!

Whole Roasted Fish with Sliced Potatoes, Olives & Herbs

SERVES: 4 • TIME: ABOUT 1 HOUR

Making