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A lot of savory chefs think that pastry and dessert are an entirely different world. They’ll say, “I don’t DO dessert.” I think that’s a cop-out. Knowing some basic desserts is absolutely essential to being a well-rounded cook. In fact, when I was in culinary school, I learned the most about being a technique chef (someone who understands the importance of how and why you do something rather than just how to follow a recipe) from one of my pastry instructors.

A lot of the same techniques used in the savory kitchen are also used in the pastry kitchen, and while you certainly don’t need to learn how to make a ten-layer wedding cake with rolled fondant or how to make pulled sugar, there are some pastry basics you should know—like how to whip egg whites to peaks, make a caramel, or pull together a simple crisp. While mise en place is always important, in the pastry kitchen it’s essential—and measuring correctly is a big deal here, too. When it comes to pastry, once you get going it’s hard to go back and fix things, so being totally prepped and having all your ingredients and tools on hand before you start is key to success.

I’m a big fan of dessert, but I can’t say that I have a sweet tooth. After dinner I usually want only one bite of something sweet. But as a savory chef I like to make dessert, and I don’t think a meal is complete without one. I’ve included some of my very favorite desserts in this chapter. They’re all accessible to new and more advanced cooks, and they’re also very much in tune with my character as a chef: thoughtful, creative, delicious, and, of course, a bit outside the box.

Mom’s Anise Seed Cookies

Lemon Curd Tart with Almond Crust

Hazelnut Cake with Nutella Mousse

Goat Cheese Cheesecake with Spiced Nilla Wafer Crust

Apple & Olive Oil Cake with Sautéed Apples & Mascarpone

Pear Tarte Tatin with Shortbread Crust

Macedonia (My Super-Special Fruit Cocktail)

Juicy, Jammy, Jelly Tart

Zeppole & Chocolate Dipper

Tarallucci with Salty Caramel

Chef Anne’s Dried Cherry & Almond Biscotti

Blueberry Nectarine Crisp

Maple-Pumpkin Bread Pudding

Strawberry-Raspberry Shortcakes

MAKES: 32 TO 36 • TIME: ABOUT 2 HOURS

I remember these cookies with annoyance and affection. Growing up, every year for my birthday my mother would send me to school with her anise seed cookies. Other kids got to bring cupcakes. I was the kid with the anise seed cookies. It’s not that I didn’t like these cookies—I loved them then and I still do. But back then I just wanted cupcakes like everyone else! Today I’m pretty psyched whenever I get a chance to munch on these lovelies. I even made a version of this recipe during an Iron Chef battle and they helped us win!

MISE EN PLACE

¾ pound (3 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature

1½ cups powdered sugar, plus more as needed

1 large egg

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Grated zest of 1 lemon

1 teaspoon baking powder

Pinch of kosher salt

2¼ cups all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons anise seeds, toasted

1 cup turbinado sugar

1 In a large mixing bowl, combine the butter and powdered sugar. Beat until light and fluffy.

2 Beat in the egg, vanilla, lemon zest, baking powder, and salt.

3 Gradually incorporate the flour and anise seeds. When the flour is well combined, turn the dough out onto a clean work surface dusted with powdered sugar. Knead the dough two or three times until it comes together, then form it into a disk, wrap it in plastic, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

4 When you’re ready to bake, remove the dough from the fridge and let it warm for about 10 minutes.

5 Preheat the oven to 350°F.

6 Lightly dust a work surface with powdered sugar and roll out the dough; it should be about ¼ inch thick. Cut the dough into desired shapes and place the cookies on ungreased baking sheets. Sprinkle each cookie with some of the turbinado sugar. Bake for 10 to 11 minutes, or until the cookies are just golden. Let cool and serve or store in an airtight container.

Thanks, Mom!

Lemon Curd Tart with Almond Crust

SERVES: 8