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5. Serve warm, or pour the soup into a large bowl and refrigerate for 2 hours, or overnight, until chilled. (If refrigerating overnight, cover the bowl after 2 hours.)

NOTE: Look for pods that are firm and bright green, with no blackened soft spots. Shell the peas by grasping the remnants of the stem, as if it were the tab of a zipper, and “zipping” it down the inside curve of the pod. Gently pry the pod open to release the peas inside.

Adding More

If desired, divide any of the following as toppings between the two bowls:

2 tablespoons sour cream (regular, low-fat, or nonfat)

2 tablespoons yogurt (regular, low-fat, or nonfat)

2 teaspoons chopped fresh basil

1 teaspoon chopped fresh mint

1 teaspoon fresh thyme

½ teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

Or make this soup into a heartier meal by dividing 2 tablespoons sour cream, crème fraîche, or plain yogurt between the bowls, then lay any of the following on top, dividing them between the bowls:

6 ounces lump crabmeat, picked over for shells and cartilage

½ pound precooked cocktail shrimp, peeled and deveined

½ pound steamed, sautéed, or grilled tofu, cut into ½-inch cubes

THAI-INSPIRED SQUASH, MUSHROOM, and BASIL STEW makes 2 hearty servings

The secret to most Thai stews is the mélange of coconut milk, brown sugar, nam pla, and yellow Thai curry paste, a prepared mixture of spices and oil. Some brands of yellow Thai curry paste are fiery yet so sweet as to be almost flowery; others are quite bland. We prefer the Mae Ploy brand. In any event, Thai bottlings do not include ghee, or clarified butter, as do Indian brands. Yellow Thai curry paste is available in the Asian section of many markets and almost all Asian supermarkets. Store it in the refrigerator for up to 6 months. Substitute red Thai curry paste if you want a hotter dish.

1 tablespoon peanut oil

1 small shallot, thinly sliced

1 small garlic clove, slivered

8 ounces cremini mushrooms, or white button mushrooms, cleaned and cut into quarters

1 tablespoon yellow Thai curry paste (see headnote)

One 5½-ounce can coconut milk

2 tablespoons nam pla (see page 10)

1 tablespoon packed light brown sugar

1 medium acorn squash (about 1½ pounds), peeled, seeded, and cut into ½-inch cubes (see Note)

1 small red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and cut into ½-inch strips

3 small scallions, cut into thirds

6 fresh basil leaves

1. Heat a medium pot over medium heat. Swirl in the peanut oil, then stir in the shallot and garlic. Cook for 1 minute, or just until barely softened, stirring frequently. Do not let the garlic brown—it should just soften slightly and sizzle at the edges. Add the mushrooms and cook for 2 minutes, or until they give off their liquid, stirring frequently. Then reduce the heat to low, and cook undisturbed for about 3 more minutes, until the mushroom liquid has been reduced to a glaze.

2. Raise the heat to medium again and melt the yellow curry paste into the stew by slowly stirring and cooking for about 10 seconds. Once the mixture is smooth and smells quite fiery, stir in the coconut milk, nam pla, and brown sugar, scraping up any browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Bring the soup to a simmer before stirring in the squash, bell pepper, scallions, and basil. Cover, reduce the heat to very low, and simmer for 25 minutes, or until the squash is fork-tender, stirring occasionally. Serve immediately.

NOTE: A vegetable peeler won’t do the job of peeling a tough acorn squash. The easiest way to do it is to cut the squash in half, scoop out the seeds, then lay the halves cut side down on a cutting board. Use a paring knife to peel off the skin in long arcs, starting at the top of each half-globe and following the natural curve of the squash. Any small bits remaining can be peeled off with a paring knife once the larger strips have been removed.

FISH AND POTATO CHOWDER makes 2 servings

There’s really just one secret to making a comforting chowder: don’t add too much cream.