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considerably, but not until they’re limp, stirring constantly. Add the chopped ham and cook for 2 minutes, stirring once or twice. Once the ham has begun to frizzle at the edges, stir in the tomatoes with their juice, the rice, thyme, and cayenne. Make sure the rice is completely submerged in the liquid; then cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for about 12 minutes, until the rice is tender. Stir once or twice while the stew is simmering to prevent any flour from falling out of suspension and sticking to the bottom of the pan. If it does, lower the heat even further, or remove the pan from the heat to slow down the cooking. In any case, stir the stew more frequently, but avoid pulling up any burned bits of flour on the pan’s bottom.

3. Uncover the pan and stir in the shrimp. If the stew is too thick, stir in water in 1 tablespoon increments until it is again soupy but still thick. Cook, uncovered, for about 2 minutes, or until the shrimp are firm and pink, stirring once or twice. Serve immediately.

NOTES: A cubanel (sometimes spelled cubanelle, or called an Italian frying pepper) is a long, thin, green, fingerlike pepper, quite sweet and very aromatic. Substitute an Anaheim pepper or a small green bell pepper in a pinch.

Smoked ham is available in the deli case of most supermarkets. Ask the butcher to slice it quite thick, so the chopped pieces will not break down and melt in the stew. For a more authentic taste, buy a small smoked ham shank (a 10-ounce bone with meat) and cut the meat off yourself.

BOLIVIAN GREEN CHILE STEW makes 2 hearty servings

The warmed avocados give this spicy, homey stew from Bolivia a creamy richness; puréed garbanzo beans thicken it without excess fat. The mixture of sour cream and ground cumin isn’t just a garnish for this dish—instead, it balances the flavors, adding a cool touch to this hearty, aromatic stew.

1 tablespoon canola or other vegetable oil

1 small onion, halved, then thinly sliced

1 small garlic clove, minced

½ pound pork stew meat, cut into 1-inch pieces

One 15-ounce can garbanzo beans (chickpeas), drained and rinsed

One 4-ounce can chopped green chiles (hot, medium, or mild), drained

One 14½-ounce can chicken stock (regular, low-fat, or nonfat, but preferably low-sodium)

1 small Hass avocado, peeled, pitted, and cut into ½-inch chunks

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro, or 1 tablespoon dried cilantro

1 tablespoon lime juice

½ teaspoon salt

¼ cup sour cream (regular, low-fat, or nonfat)

¼ teaspoon ground cumin

1. Heat a medium saucepan over medium heat. Swirl in the oil, then stir in the onion and garlic. Cook for only 2 minutes, or just until the onion turns pale, stirring constantly. Raise the heat to medium-high and stir in the pork. Sauté for 2 more minutes, just until the meat is browned but not until it is cooked through.

2. Reserve ¾ cup of the garbanzo beans in a small bowl, then pour the remainder into the saucepan along with the chiles. Cook for 30 seconds, stirring constantly; then pour in the stock. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 40 minutes, stirring occasionally.

3. Remove 1 cup of the liquid from the saucepan. Place it along with the reserved garbanzo beans in a mini food processor, a regular food processor fitted with a chopping blade, or a large blender. Pulse until puréed, scraping down the sides of the bowl as necessary, then stir this puréed mixture into the soup. Continue simmering for 10 minutes, uncovered, stirring frequently.

4. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the avocado, cilantro, lime juice, and salt. Cover and let rest off the heat for 5 minutes to meld the flavors. Meanwhile, whisk the sour cream and cumin in a small bowl until smooth.

5. To serve, stir the soup once, then divide it between two bowls. Top each with half the sour cream mixture.

PORK POSOLE makes 2 servings

A dish popular in Mexican and Tex-Mex cuisine, posole is a spicy but comforting stew of hominy and chiles, often served for dinner or breakfast alongside warm tortillas or a slab of fresh cornbread. No matter when it