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BEEF and MAC CASSEROLE makes a 1-quart casserole

Food snobs, look elsewhere. Long a lunchroom favorite and the inspiration for countless packaged imitators, beef and mac casserole has passed into the realm of American culinary icons. Why not try it again? While it bakes, pour yourself a glass of iced tea and watch the evening news. Soon enough, you’ll have a warm, comforting meal, best served with corn muffins. For dessert? Ice cream sundaes, of course.

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 small onion, minced

1 medium celery rib, chopped

1 medium garlic clove, minced

½ pound lean ground beef, preferably ground sirloin

One 15-ounce can tomato sauce

2 teaspoons chopped fresh oregano, or 1 teaspoon dried oregano

2 teaspoons chopped fresh basil, or 1 teaspoon dried basil

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 ounces dried elbow macaroni, cooked according to package instructions

¼ cup grated Cheddar, or ¼ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (about 1 ounce)

1. Position the rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F.

2. Heat a large skillet or sauté pan over medium-high heat. Swirl in the oil, then stir in the onion and celery and cook for 2 minutes, or until somewhat limp but fragrant, stirring frequently. Stir in the garlic and cook for only 10 seconds, just until it sizzles at the edges. Then crumble the beef into the pan and cook for about 5 minutes, or until lightly browned, stirring occasionally.

3. Pour in the tomato sauce, stir well, and add the oregano, basil, salt, and pepper. Bring the mixture to a simmer. Cover, reduce the heat to medium-low, and cook for 5 minutes. Stir in the cooked macaroni and 2 tablespoons of the grated cheese. Pour this mixture into a 1-quart round soufflé dish. Top with the remaining 2 tablespoons of cheese.

4. Bake for 30 minutes, or until bubbly and lightly browned. Let stand for 5 minutes at room temperature before serving.

Making a Classic More Interesting

Stir 2 tablespoons powdered dried mushrooms, such as porcini or chanterelles, into the beef mixture with the macaroni.

Or omit the Cheddar and stir 2 tablespoons Gorgonzola, Asiago, Havarti, or feta into the beef mixture with the macaroni. Top the dish with 2 tablespoons of freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.

COWBOY BAKED BEANS makes 2 servings

A dish of baked beans is hardly a meal in itself—although we’ve often wished it could be! It’s a childhood favorite, really—those tender beans simmering in that sweet, salty sauce. It ought to be an adult favorite, too—so here it is, updated with fresh tomatoes, beer, and beef jerky, which lends the dish a salty, piquant bite. Call it a campfire treat brought indoors.

1 tablespoon canola or other vegetable oil

½ pound lean ground beef

1 small onion, minced

1 medium garlic clove, minced

1 teaspoon all-purpose flour

1 ounce beef jerky, chopped

1 Italian plum tomato, chopped

2 tablespoons ketchup

2 tablespoons packed dark brown sugar

1½ teaspoons dry mustard

1½ teaspoons cider vinegar

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ teaspoon salt

One 15-ounce can pinto beans, rinsed and drained

One 12-ounce bottle beer, preferably a dark beer (but not a flavored beer)

¼ teaspoon liquid smoke, optional

3 dashes Tabasco sauce, or to taste

1. Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F.

2. Heat a medium oven-safe pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Swirl in the oil, then crumble in the ground beef. Sauté for only about 1 minute, just until it loses its raw, red color; then add the onion and cook for 1 minute, stirring constantly to incorporate the onion into the meat. Add the garlic and cook for just 10 seconds, stirring constantly.

3. Sprinkle the flour evenly over the beef mixture, and cook for 30 seconds undisturbed. Stir well, then cook for 1 more minute, stirring the mixture once or twice while browning the flour slightly. Stir in the beef jerky and tomato; cook for about 2 minutes, or just until the mixture comes to a simmer