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with tequila, which gives them a delicate, slightly sour taste, a good foil to the sweet greens. Although the red, yellow, or white center “vein” in each leaf of Swiss chard must be cut away and discarded before the leaves are chopped, you needn’t cut out the smaller, branching veins that run through the leaves. If you wish, you can chop the larger stems, freeze them, then later toss them into long-simmered soups and stews. Dried New Mexican chiles are available in most gourmet markets, all Mexican markets, and from outlets listed in the Source Guide (page 269).

FOR THE SAUCE

1 tablespoon canola or other vegetable oil

2 large shallots, chopped

1 large garlic clove, minced

One 14½-ounce can vegetable stock (regular, low-fat, or nonfat, but preferably low-sodium)

¼ cup tequila (see Note)

6 dried red New Mexican chiles, stemmed and seeded

1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano, or 2 teaspoons dried oregano

½ teaspoon salt

FOR THE ENCHILADAS

2 tablespoons pine nuts

2 tablespoons canola or other vegetable oil, plus additional for the baking dish

2 medium garlic cloves, minced

1 small bunch red or yellow Swiss chard (about 12 ounces), stems and center veins removed, leaves roughly chopped

2 teaspoons chopped fresh oregano, or 1 teaspoon dried oregano

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon salt

¼ cup water

Four 10- to 12-inch flour tortillas

¾ cup shredded aged white Cheddar or Monterey Jack (about 3 ounces)

1. To make the sauce, heat a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Swirl in the oil, then add the shallots. Cook for 2 minutes, or until soft and fragrant, stirring frequently. Add the garlic, cook for 20 seconds, then stir in the stock and tequila. The tequila may ignite—if so, cover the pan and remove it from the heat for 30 seconds.

2. Stir in the chiles, oregano, and salt. Bring the mixture to a simmer, cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 20 minutes, until the chiles are soft, stirring once or twice.

3. Transfer the chile mixture to a food processor fitted with the chopping blade or a large blender. Pulse twice to chop the chiles, then process until smooth, scraping down the sides of the bowl as necessary. Set aside. (The dish can be made up to this point in advance; let the sauce cool completely, then store it, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.)

4. To make the enchiladas, heat a large skillet over medium heat. Add the pine nuts and toast for about 3 minutes, or until lightly browned and fragrant, stirring frequently. Remove the pine nuts from the skillet and set them aside.

5. Return the skillet to medium heat, swirl in the oil, then add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds, just until lightly browned. Add the chopped Swiss chard, oregano, cinnamon, and salt. Toss with tongs or two large wooden spoons until thoroughly combined, then pour in the water. Cover the skillet, reduce the heat to low, and steam the chard for 10 minutes.

6. Uncover the skillet, toss the mixture thoroughly, then raise the heat to high and boil for about 1 minute, or until any excess liquid is evaporated. Transfer the filling to a bowl and set aside to cool slightly.

7. Position the rack in the bottom third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Oil an 8-inch square baking dish. Lay one tortilla on a clean, dry work surface. Spoon one-quarter of the sautéed chard mixture down the center of the tortilla. Top with 1½ tablespoons shredded cheese and ½ tablespoon toasted pine nuts. Roll the tortilla closed and place seam down in the prepared baking dish. Repeat with the remaining three tortillas.

8. Pour the prepared sauce over the rolled tortillas in the dish, covering them completely. Sprinkle with the remaining cheese and bake uncovered for 30 minutes, or until bubbly. Let stand for 5 minutes before serving.

NOTE: Use the best tequila you can comfortably afford. High-quality tequila is made entirely from the root and heart of the blue agave plant (often labeled “100% blue agave” on the bottle). It is available in a clear variety, bottled right after distillation, as well as “reposado” (rested