Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [102]
LOS ÁNGELES CLOUD FOREST ADVENTURE PARK
This private reserve (2461-0643; www.cloudforestcostarica.com; per person US$20; 9am-4pm), 18km north of San Ramón, is centered on a lodge and dairy ranch that was once owned by ex-president Rodrigo Carazo. Some 800 hectares of primary and secondary forest have a short boardwalk and 11km of foot trails that lead to towering waterfalls and misty cloud forest vistas. The appeal of this cloud forest (which is actually adjacent to the reserve at Monteverde, Click here) is that it is comparatively untouristed, which means you will have a good chance of observing wildlife (jaguars and ocelots have been spotted), and the bird-watching is fantastic.
Bilingual naturalist guides are available to lead hikes (per person US$30) and guided horseback-riding trips (per hour US$20). Alternatively, you can zip along the tree tops on the reserve’s obligatory canopy tour (per person US$45).
A taxi to the reserve and hotel costs about US$15 from San Ramón, and the turnoff is well signed from the Interamericana.
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Sleeping
Tierras Enamoradas (2447-9331; www.landsinlove.com; d incl breakfast US$105, additional person US$22; ) Adjacent to another private reserve featuring 20km of cloud-forest trails, this Israeli-run vegetarian B&B has eclectic rooms with bright floral motifs, a lounge, an outdoor swimming pool and good views. The restaurant serves an international mix of Costa Rican, Mediterranean and Middle Eastern items, though plan on spending for it: gallo pinto (stir-fried rice and beans) will set you back US$9. It’s about halfway between Villa Blanca Cloud Forest Hotel Spa and the village of La Tigra.
Villa Blanca Cloud Forest Hotel Spa (2228-4603; www.villablanca-costarica.com; d superior/deluxe/honeymoon US$170/192/215, additional person US$25, child under 6 free, all incl breakfast; ) Nestled into a well-manicured garden that sits alongside the reserve, this recommended lodge has 30 blue-and-white adobe casitas (little houses) that come with varying levels of amenities. All have fireplaces, minibars and coffeemakers; more expensive units are bigger and come equipped with Jacuzzi tubs. There’s a fine restaurant that serves a Central American menu, including veggie dishes. All manner of excursions can be arranged, such as hikes to a nearby peak to see quetzals and kid-friendly trips to a local dairy farm. Credit cards accepted.
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HEREDIA AREA
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Despite its proximity to the capital, Heredia isn’t just another San José suburb. Since the late 1990s the city has served as Costa Rica’s center of technology: microchips produced here have become one of the country’s most important exports, turning Heredia into a magnet for highly educated tech heads. The town itself has a very young vibe, particularly around the western edge of town, where students lounge around cafes and bars at all hours of the day. In addition to the tech boom, the region remains a vital coffee producer – and a gateway to one of Costa Rica’s largest swaths of highland forest, the Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo.
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HEREDIA
pop 33,000
During the 19th century, La Ciudad de las Flores (The City of the Flowers) was home to a cafetalero (coffee grower) aristocracy that made its fortune exporting Costa Rica’s premium blend. Today, the historic center retains some of this well-bred air, with a leafy main square that is overlooked by a stocky cathedral, and low-lying buildings that channel the architecture of the Spanish colony.
Though only 11km from San José, Heredia is – in personality – at a remove from the grit and grime of the capital. Yet, it still maintains a cosmopolitan vibe – largely due to the high-tech corporations (such as Intel) that have settled amid the area’s coffee fincas. In addition, the Universidad Nacional (National University) keeps things a touch bohemian and on any afternoon, you’re bound to find local bars and cafes abuzz with young folk idling away their time.
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