Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [104]
Hotel Heredia (2238-0880; Calle 6 btwn Avs 3 & 5; s/d/tr/q US$24/33/43/53, apt per week US$150; ) Run by the same folks as the Hotel Ceos, this is a better option. It’s a white-and-blue house with 12 basic ceramic-tile rooms that have small, but decent bathroom with hot-water shower. All have cable TV and there is a small garden out back. The one-bedroom apartment comes equipped with a small kitchenette and a living area.
Hotel Chalet Tirol (2267-6222; www.hotelchaleteltirol.com; d incl breakfast US$85; ) Northeast of Heredia, a few kilometers north of the Club Campestre El Castillo, you’ll find this unusual hotel that channels the gingerbread quaintness of the Alps. (It was once covered in fake snow and used as a backdrop for a German beer advert.) The 23 rooms, all of which come equipped with cable TV, could stand an upgrade, but they are generally charming, and come in a variety of configurations, including rustic stand-alone ‘chalets.’ In July and August, the hotel hosts a small international music festival.
Hotel Valladolid (2260-2905; www.hotelvalladolid.net; cnr Calle 7 & Av 7; d US$87; ) This business hotel on a quiet street on the northeast end of town has 12 bright, clean, tiled rooms that aren’t beautiful, but are very well maintained. They all have microwaves, minifridge, bar, cable TV and private bathroom with hot water. The staff is quite helpful; credit cards accepted.
Hotel Bougainvillea (2244-1414; www.hb.co.cr; d incl breakfast US$103-140; ) In Santo Domingo de Heredia, this efficient hotel is set on 4 hectares of land and is surrounded by a well-manicured garden dotted with old-growth trees, stunning flowers and plenty of statuary. Eighty-one crisp, whitewashed rooms have balconies with views of the mountains or the city and there are several private trails that wind by the swimming pool and tennis courts, through forest and fruit orchards. There is a restaurant and cocktail bar. It is located 6km southeast of town. Credit cards accepted.
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Eating
In the grand tradition of university towns worldwide, Heredia offers plenty of spots for pizza slices and cheap vegetarian grub, not to mention one branch of every fast-food outlet imaginable.
El Testy (cnr Calle 2 & Av 2; dishes ₡1200-2800) Here it is folks, your one-stop shop for burritos, ravioli, hamburgers, tacos, chicken and fries. Feeling indecisive? It also sells ice cream, candy, cookies and snacks!
Vishnu Mango Verde (2237-2526; Calle 7 btwn Avs Central & 1; dishes ₡1600-3100; 8am-7pm Mon-Sat; ) This branch of the famous San José chain is the top spot in town for vegetarian fare – including a wide array of colorful salads and cheap, gut-filling casados.
Cowboy Steakhouse (2237-8719; Calle 9 btwn Avs 3 & 5; dishes ₡1900-7400; 5-11pm Mon-Sat) This yellow-and-red joint with two bars has patio seating and the best cuts of beef in town. As the title suggests, steak is the focal point, making it a meat-lover’s must. But the hearty salads and extensive list of bocas (savory bar snacks) are worth a nibble as well.
You can fill up for a couple of thousand colones at the Mercado Municipal (Calle 2 btwn Avs 6 & 8; 6am-6pm), which has sodas to spare and plenty of very fresh groceries. Más x Menos (Av 6 btwn Calles 4 & 6; 8:30am-9pm) is a supermarket with everything else.
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Drinking & Entertainment
With a thriving student body, there’s no shortage of live music, cultural events and the odd happening. Stay aware: Heredia can get dodgy at nighttime, though there is an established police presence.
The university district is hopping most nights of the week (Tico students live it up like you wouldn’t believe). La Choza (Av Central btwn Calles 7 & 9), El Bulevar (cnr Calle 7 & Av Central) and El Rancho de Fofo (Av Central btwn Calles 7 & 9) are three long-running watering holes.
After a few rounds of beers, the party really kicks off at the Miraflores