Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [110]
The University of Costa Rica runs the exceptional Lankester Gardens (2552-3247; www.jardinbotanicolankester.org; admission adult/student US$7/5; 8:30am-4:30pm; ), which was started as a private garden by British orchid enthusiast Charles Lankester in 1917, but was turned over to the university for public administration in 1973. Orchids are the big draw at this tranquil 11-hectare spot, with more than 1100 at their showiest from March to May. There is also a new Japanese garden, as well as areas full of bromeliads, palms, heliconias and other tropical plants. There is a good gift shop (this is one of the few places where foreigners can legally purchase orchids to take home) and a cafe was in the works at the time of research. Guided tours in English and Spanish can be arranged with prior reservation; the garden is wheelchair-accessible. Find it 5km west of Paraíso on the road to Cartago; look for a blue sign with an image of an orchid.
Two kilometers east of Paraíso on the road to Turrialba is Finca Cristina (2574-6426, in USA 800-355-8826; www.cafecristina.com; guided tour per person US$12), an organic coffee farm that is open to visitors by appointment only (call ahead for a reservation). Linda and Ernie have been farming in Costa Rica since 1977, and a 90-minute tour of their microbeneficio (miniprocessing plant) is a fantastic introduction to the processes of organic-coffee growing, harvesting and roasting. Finca Cristina also sells its product to guests at wholesale prices.
The most beautiful places to stay are just outside of town. On the road from Paraíso to Orosi stands Orosi Valley Farm B&B Hostel (2533-3001; www.orosivalleyfarm.com; dm US$10, d US$45; ), a picturesque old farmhouse with a trickling creek and jaw-dropping views of the lush green valley. It was being remodeled in 2010 – so call ahead to double-check prices and availability.
About 2km south of Paraíso, and 1km off the main road, you’ll find Sanchirí Mirador (2574-5454; www.sanchiri.com; d incl breakfast US$75; ), a delightful, family-run B&B that offers an excellent reason to break up a road trip. There are 12 superclean, ceramic-tiled rooms with comfortable wood furnishings and staggering vistas of Parque Nacional Tapantí-Macizo Cerro de la Muerte and the Reventazón river in the valley below. Alongside lie five slightly older, but equally spic-and-span wood cabinas that are nestled a little more deeply into the forest (though these also have nice views). All have roomy stone bathroom with hot water. If you’re not staying overnight, but need a place to break for lunch, the open-air Sanchiri Restaurante (casados ₡4000; 7am-8pm) is a good choice. The friendly staff serve generous portions of good regional cooking – but you’re not here for the food, you’re here for the extravagant valley views. Recommended.
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Orosi
pop 3900
Named for a Huetar chief who lived here at the time of the conquest, Orosi charmed Spanish colonists in the 18th century with its perfect climate, rich soil and wealth of water – from lazy hot springs to bracing waterfalls. So, in the typical fashion of the day, they decided to take the property off Orosi’s hands. Today the area remains picturesque – and is a good spot to revel in beautiful scenery and a small town atmosphere.
Orosi is one of the few colonial-era towns to survive Costa Rica’s frequent earthquakes, which have thankfully spared the postcard-perfect village church, the Iglesia de San José Orosi. Built in 1743, it is the oldest religious site still in use in Costa Rica. The roof of the church is a combination of thatched cane and ceramic tiling, while the carved wood altar is adorned with religious paintings of Mexican origin. Adjacent to the church is a small museum (2533-3051; admission US$1; 9am-5pm Tue-Sun) with interesting examples of Spanish-colonial religious art and artifacts, some of which date back