Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [116]
WHITE-WATER RAFTING IN THE CENTRAL VALLEY
There are two major rivers in the Turrialba area that are popular for rafting – the Río Reventazón and the Río Pacuare. The following is a quick guide to the ins and outs (and ups and downs) of each.
Río Reventazón
This storied rock-lined river has its beginnings at the Lago de Cachí, an artificial lake created by a dam of the same name. It begins here, at 1000m above sea level, and splashes down the eastern slopes of the cordilleras to the Caribbean lowlands. It is one of the most difficult, adrenaline-pumping runs in the country – and with more than 65km of rapids, you can get as hardcore as you like.
Tour operators divide the river into four sections between the dam and the take-out point in Siquirres. Las Máquinas (Power House) is a Class II–III float that’s perfect for families, while Florida, the final and most popular segment, is a scenic Class III with a little more white water to keep things interesting. The Pascua section has 15 Class-IV rapids – featuring names like ‘the Abyss’ – and is considered to be the classic run. The Class-V Peralta segment is the most challenging; tours do not always run it due to safety concerns.
Water levels stay fairly constant year-round because of releases from the dam. There are no water releases on Sunday, however, and although the river is navigable, it’s generally considered the worst day.
Río Pacuare
The Río Pacuare is the next major river valley east of the Reventazón, and has arguably the most scenic rafting in Costa Rica, if not Central America. The river plunges down the Caribbean slope through a series of spectacular canyons clothed in virgin rainforest, through runs named for their fury and separated by calm stretches that enable you to stare at near-vertical green walls towering hundreds of meters above.
The Class III–IV Lower Pacuare is the more accessible run: 28km through rocky gorges and isolated canyons, past an indigenous village, untamed jungle and lots of wildlife curious as to what the screaming is all about.
The Upper Pacuare is also classified as Class III–IV, but there are a few sections that can also go to Class V, depending on conditions. It’s about a two-hour drive to the put-in, though it’s worth it – you’ll have the prettiest jungle cruise on earth all to yourself.
The Pacuare can be run year-round, though June to October are considered the best months. The highest water is from October to December, when the river runs fast with huge waves. March and April is when the river is at its lowest, though it is still challenging.
Trips & Prices
A number of reputable national companies organize trips (Click here), as can agencies in Turrialba.
Day trips usually raft the Class III–IV Lower Pacuare or Class-III segments of Río Reventazón, which both have easy-access put-ins. There are other runs – such as the Upper Pacuare and Pascua segment of Reventazón – but these will require more time spent in a van (though, for the dedicated adrenaline junkie, it will be worth it). Multiday excursions with camping or lodge accommodations are offered by numerous companies.
For day trips (many of which originate in San José), you can expect to pay anywhere from US$85 to US$120 depending on transportation, accessibility and amenities. It is generally less expensive to leave from Turrialba, and put-in on the Lower Pacuare or Class-III segments of the Reventazón (from US$75). For two-day trips, prices vary widely depending on accommodations, but expect to pay between US$195 to US$300 per person. Children must be at least nine years old for most trips, and older for tougher runs.
About 1.3km south of Tuis, a signed dirt road (4WD needed) leads to Rancho Naturalista (2554-8101/8100; www.ranchunaturalista.net; per person incl 3 meals US$100; ), a small lodge set on 50-hectares of land that lies 900m above sea level – and attracts dedicated bird-watchers in search