Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [119]
Buses from Turrialba (₡400, one hour) depart at 11:15am, 3:10pm and 5:30pm Monday through Saturday and at 9am, 3pm and 6:30pm on Sunday. Buses travel from Guayabo to Turrialba at 5:15am, 6:30am, 12:30pm and 4pm Monday through Saturday; 6:30am, 12:30pm and 4pm on Sunday. You can also take a taxi from Turrialba (from ₡8000).
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PARQUE NACIONAL VOLCÁN TURRIALBA
This rarely visited active volcano (3328m) was named Torre Alba (White Tower) by early Spanish settlers, who observed plumes of smoke pouring from its summit. Since its last eruption in 1866, Turrialba has generally slumbered quietly. However, in January of 2010, a small eruption rained a fine sprinkle of ash on its slopes. It was nothing major as far as eruptions go – but something that has vulcanologists closely monitoring the situation. At press time, the volcano had been regularly releasing small clouds of gas (largely helium) and areas within 2km of the summit were put on alert.
Turrialba was declared a national park in 1955, and protects a 2km radius around the volcano. Below the summit, the park consists of mountain rainforest and cloud forest, dripping with moisture and mosses, full of ferns, bromeliads and even stands of bamboo. Although small, these protected habitats shelter 84 species of birds and 11 species of mammals.
If the summit is open, you can peer into the Central Crater, which has minor fumarole activity bubbling sulfurous mud. The Main Crater, which had its last major eruption in 1866, is spewing jets of sulfur and steam, and is therefore closed to the public. The smaller Eastern Crater lacks fumarole activity, though moisture is present in the crater during the rainy season.
Although the craters are not nearly as dramatic as Poás or Irazú, the lack of infrastructure (and tourists) gives the summit a wild and natural feeling. Because of the recent eruption, inquire locally about conditions before setting out – and be sure to let someone know of your whereabouts.
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Information
At the time of writing, there was neither a ranger station nor admission fee, though there are frequently rangers at the top of the summit. The average temperature is only about 15°C (59°F), so dress accordingly.
Volcán Turrialba Lodge (see below) arranges a variety of guided hikes and horseback and mountain-biking expeditions through the park.
If it’s closed, you can always admire the summit on the volcano’s very own webcam at www.ovsicori.una.ac.cr/videoturri.html.
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Hiking
From the end of the road, trails through montane forest lead to the Eastern Crater and the Central Crater. They are unmarked, so ask a ranger if you can’t find the way. Be advised that the summit is not developed for tourism, so keep your distance from the craters and be especially careful along the edges – they are brittle and break easily.
From the rim there are views of Irazú, Poás and Barva volcanoes – weather permitting, of course.
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Sleeping
Volcán Turrialba Lodge (2273-4335; www.volcanturrialbalodge.com; r per person with 1/2/3 meals US$45/55/65; ) About 14km northwest of Santa Cruz (accessible by 4WD only), this working cattle ranch is perched between the Turrialba and Irazú volcanoes, and recommended for adventurous travelers. Tidy, lemon-yellow cabinas are heated by wood stoves and the area offers fantastic views of the volcano. The staff can also organize hikes and horseback rides (minimum two people). Meals are all typical country-cooking, served in front of a blazing stove at the restaurant-lounge, where there is a TV, board games and a small bar. It gets chilly up here, so bring warm clothes and pajamas. Rates are based on double occupancy.
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Getting There & Away
The volcano is only about 15km northwest of Turrialba as the crow flies, but more than twice as far by car than foot. From the village of Santa Cruz (which is