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By Root 1497 0

a movie director ever needed a setting for the Garden of Eden sequence in Genesis, Tabacón Hot Springs (Map; 2519-1900; www.tabacon.com; day pass adult/child incl lunch or dinner US$85/40, evening pass incl dinner US$70/35; 10am-10pm) would be it. Enter through the gratuitously opulent ticket counter, flanked by an outrageous buffet on one side and glittering gift shop on the other. Then, with a thundering announcement, rare orchids and more florid tropical blooms part to reveal, oh yes, a 40°C (104°F) waterfall pouring over a cliff, concealing natural-looking caves complete with camouflaged cup holders. Lounged across each well-placed stone, in various stages of sweat-induced exhaustion, relax reddening tourists all enjoying what could be called a hot date.

This hedonism comes at a price – on top of the exorbitant admission fee, that is. The spa, 14km west of La Fortuna, is actually on the site where a volcanic eruption ripped through in pretouristed 1975, killing one local. The former village of Tabacón was destroyed in the 1968 eruption, killing 78. Chances are you’ll be fine, but remember that as an active volcano, Arenal always poses the risk of unpredictably acting up. That said, if you have time and money to visit only one hot spring in Costa Rica, make it Tabacón.

The newest entry into the spring scene is the Springs Resort & Spa (Map; 2401-3313, in USA 954-727-8333; www.thespringscostarica.com; admission US$40). This over-the-top, luxury resort, partially opened in 2008, is giving Tabacón a run for its money. The Springs features 18 free-form pools with various temperatures, volcano views, landscaped gardens, waterfalls and swim-up bars, including a jungle bar with a water slide. During our recent visit, the resort was still partially under construction. But the parts that have opened, including the hot springs and the main lodge, are quite impressive.

Baldi Hot Springs Hotel Resort & Spa (Map; 2479-9651; www.baldihotsprings.cr; with/without buffet US$34/25; 10am-10pm) sports concrete Roman pillars and a Maya pyramid sprouting waterslides; the ambience of these springs 5km west of La Fortuna falls somewhere between Caesar’s Palace and Epcot Center. The 25 thermal pools here range in temperature from 32°C (90°F) to a scalding 67°C (153°F). At night, Baldi is especially popular with the younger backpacker crowd, attracted by the three swim-up bars, loud music, and decent buffet – but be aware that drink prices are ridiculously expensive.

Across the street, a large forbidding gate that leads to the recommended Eco Thermales Hot Springs (Map; 2479-8484; adult/child US$30/20, with dinner US$55/45; 10am-9pm) complex, which is by reservation only. The theme here is minimalist elegance, and everything from the natural circulation systems in the pools to the soft, mushroom lighting is understated yet luxurious. Just 100 visitors per four-hour slot are welcomed at 10am, 1pm and 5pm, and you can phone ahead or book online at www.anywherecostarica.com. During the evening session, guests have the option to choose from one of three set menus, which feature home-style food served in earthenware pots.

We’re certainly not going to let out the secret, but there are several free hot springs in the area that any local can take you to.

DAY SPAS

Many top-end hotels have spas that are open to nonguests including Tabacón Grand Spa Thermal Resort Lodge, the Springs Resort & Spa, Hotel Nayala and Casa Luna Lodge, among others. El Sueño Spa (Map; 2479-8261; Av Central; massages US$35-60; 9am-9pm) offers massages, facials and reflexology treatments in its peaceful little salon just across from the south side of Parque Central. It also sells volcanic mud so you can relive the spa experience at home.

Herrera Day Spa (Map; 2479-9016; cnr Av Volcán & Calle 3; massages US$20-85; 9am-10pm), 200m northeast of Parque Central, has an intimate, European atmosphere and sells its own line of homemade beauty products.

WATERFALLS

Even if you can’t see Arenal, La Fortuna has another natural wonder that pales only in comparison with an erupting