Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [128]
Why did you hike Arenal? The eruption traumatized me as a child, and I remained scared of Arenal even as an adult. To conquer my fear I started spending more time around the volcano. I began working as a tour guide at Arenal Observatory Lodge. I started hiking up Arenal, getting closer and closer to the top. Finally in 1996 I reached the summit and placed a banner in honor of those who died in 1968. I’ve since climbed to the top of Arenal eight times. It’s very difficult, very dangerous and now very illegal. I won’t do it again, and neither should you.
How dangerous is Arenal? Over the years, several hikers have been killed when they were consumed by the toxic fumes. In August 2000 a small sightseeing airplane that got too close crashed into the side of Arenal, killing 10 people; I was part of the team sent to recover the bodies. You must always have respect for volcanoes because you can never predict what they will do.
What do you enjoy most about working on Arenal? I love meeting people from all over the world. I love nature. And yes, I love Arenal volcano. It’s part of my life. The volcano is like my friend…a very dangerous friend.
You could have someone blindfold you and spin you around on Av Central and chances are you’d manage to stumble right into a tour-operator’s desk – unless a tout got a hold of you first. While exploding development in La Fortuna means there’s a lot of healthy competition, you’ll need to shop around, compare prices and not buy your tour from some friendly dude on the street. This is one place where the freedom of having your own wheels can save you money and hassles.
There’s usually a two-person minimum for any trip, and groups can work out discounts in advance with most outfitters. If you don’t want to deal with the tour operators, most hotels can arrange trips for you, though you will probably be charged a US$5 per person commission. It’s also becoming standard practice in La Fortuna to sell tourists pricey tours to distant destinations, such as Caño Negro. If you’re turned off by the idea of public transportation, this is a fine option, though you’ll save yourself a ton of money (and probably have a much better experience) if you actually go to these places on the local bus and then organize a tour upon arrival.
Most tourists are interested in taking the obligatory trip to Volcán Arenal, which is generally an afternoon excursion to either the national park or a private overlook to appreciate the mountain by day, combined with a trip to one of the hot springs and usually dinner. Then it’s off to another overlook in the evening, where lucky souls will see some lava. Prices vary widely, but generally run US$25 to US$65 per person. Make sure your tour includes entry fees to the park and hot springs, which could easily add another US$25 to the total. Also remember that there’s a better-than-even chance that Arenal will remain demurely wrapped in cloud cover for the duration of your trek. There are no refunds if you can’t see anything, but nighttime soaks in the hot springs are pretty damn great anyway.
Most agencies in town can also arrange jeep-boat-jeep transportation to Monteverde (Click here), which is the easiest, most scenic way to visit the cloud forests.
The tour operators listed below are a few of the more established agencies, but this list is by no means exhaustive.
Aventuras Arenal (Map; 2479-9133; www.arenaladventures.com; Av Central; 7am-8pm) Has been