Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [133]
Hotel Arenal Green (Map; 2479-8383; www.arenalgreen.com; d/tr/q US$65/75/90, villas US$110-125; ) On the road to Cerro Chato is this reader-recommended, family-friendly hotel comprising six clean and spacious cabins with private hot-water bathroom, coffee-maker and fridge. The villa sleeps six and has a kitchenette and cable TV. A great choice for families.
Chachagua Rainforest Hotel (Map; 2468-1010; www.chachaguarainforesthotel.com; s/d incl breakfast US$87/103; ) This hotel is a naturalist’s dream, situated on a private reserve that abuts the Bosque Eterno de Los Niños. Part of the property is a working orchard, cattle ranch and fish farm, while the rest is humid rainforest that can be accessed either through a series of hiking trails or on horseback. Request the older, Frank Lloyd Wright–esque wooden cabins, which have low windows for watching the birds. There’s also a pool within the exquisitely lush grounds, as well as a restaurant that features some produce and meats raised on the premises. The 2km dirt road forking off the main road may require 4WD in the rainy season.
Casa Luna Lodge (Map; 2479-7368; www.casalunalodge.com; r incl breakfast US$116; ) Wooden doors open into elegant rooms tiled in terra-cotta. Some rooms are wheelchair-accessible, and have large orthopedic beds. There’s wi-fi access, secure parking, spa treatments (US$40 to US$130) and the pleasant pool area is edged with landscaped garden walkways leading to an open-air restaurant. It’s 1.5km from the main road, on the right.
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Eating
BUDGET
Rainforest Café (Map; 2479-7239; Calle 1 btwn Avs Central & Arenal; pastries ₡750-2750; 7am-8:30pm; ) Superb coffee and espresso is served in what feels like an industrial tent, all glass walls and aluminum bathroom door. There’s a dash of urban coffeehouse atmosphere as well, in the burlap coffee bags on the floor and coffee beans under the glass tabletops. The pastry case is a marvel, and the menu has some sandwich-type items along with specialty coffee drinks.
Restaurante El Jardín (Map; 2479-9360; cnr Av Central & Calle 3; mains ₡1400-8000; 5am-1pm) You can either relax over a shrimp pizza in this bustling eatery 100m east of the Parque Central, or grab a chair beneath the Pollo Pito Pito sign and snack on a few pieces of greasy (but delicious) fried chicken.
Soda Viquez (Map; 2479-7132; mains ₡1500-4000; 7am-10pm) Locals swear this is the best soda in town, and we won’t dispute their opinion. Located just left of the Rainforest Café, this cute, open-air, family place serves great Tico favorites including awesome casados (₡2700). Don’t miss the grilled fish with garlic. Wash it down with a fresh juice smoothie. Divine!
Restaurante Linda Vista (Map; 2468-0660; mains ₡1800-3000; 10am-midnight) Down in Chachagua, this roadside soda with fabulous views is about 500m south of Villas Josipek. The nice ladies running this place serve typical Costa Rican dishes.
Soda La Parada (Map; 2479-9547; www.restaurantelaparada.com; Av Central; mains ₡2200-9500; 24hr) Facing Parque Central and all the street action, this popular soda serves great steak casados, decent pizza and a couple of bizarre Tico health drinks – chan (slimy) and linaza (good for indigestion) – to after-hours revelers and folks waiting for their buses.
Gecko Gourmet (Map; 2479-8905; cnr Calle 2 & Av Fort; ₡2500-4000; low season 8:30am-5pm, high season 6am-6pm; ) Tired of casados? Stop by this little deli for great sandwich and salad offers, including several vegetarian options. Or start the morning with homemade bagels or a breakfast burrito. It’s in the same building as Wave Expeditions.
Lava Rocks Café (Map; 2479-9222; Av Central; mains ₡3000-9500; 7am-10pm) This popular cafe dishes out big breakfasts, hearty casados and fresh salads, and has breezy, open-air seating in the shade. It’s a magnet for tourists, who can also book tours from the desk here.
For groceries, stop by the well-stocked Super