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Sights

OK, so the terms ‘eco’ and ‘mining’ don’t exactly go together like bees and honey to us either, but it’s still worth visiting the small Ecomuseo de las Minas de Abangares (2662-0310; adult/child $US4/2; 8am-4pm Tue-Sun), which has a few photographs and models depicting the old mining practices of the area. In the grounds outside the museum are a picnic area and children’s play area, and there’s a good system of trails that pass by old mining artifacts, such as bits of railway. There’s also good bird-watching (and iguana-ing) along the trails, and monkeys are occasionally sighted.

From the Interamericana, take the paved road 100m past the Parque Central, turn left, cross a bridge, then turn right at the ‘Ecomuseo 4km’ sign. About 2km past Juntas, the road forks – a sign indicates a road going left to Monteverde (30km) and to the right to the Ecomuseo (2km).

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Tours

Mina Tours (2662-0753; www.minatours.com; 8am-5pm Mon-Fri), behind the church, is a family-run tour outfit that can arrange transportation and accommodations reservations, and offers several gold-themed tours, including the Ecomuseo and abandoned mines, beginning at about US$30 per person for day trips and more for overnight excursions.

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Sleeping & Eating

Cabinas Las Juntas (2662-0153; s/d US$6/10; ) The cheapest bed in town is perfectly acceptable if you’re just looking to get a bit of shut-eye before heading to Monteverde. There are basic but clean, small, tiled rooms with a cold private shower and cable TV. América, the proprietor, will fix breakfast for US$2 extra. It’s 200m south of the gas station.

Restaurante y Cabinas Mirador el Angel (2693-8489, 8994-9452; r incl breakfast per person US$13; mains ₡1200-7000; restaurant 8am-9:30pm Mon-Sun; ) Halfway between Juntas and Monteverde, a well-signed, steep dirt road leads up to this hidden gem with amazing views of the valley and Golfo de Nicoya. The restaurant menu features terrific casados like grilled fresh fish, plus burgers and other fast food. The rustic cabins overlook the family’s coffee plantation and have private bathroom with hot water, TV and balcony. Owners Angel and Concha are wonderfully hospitable, though little English is spoken. It’s located about 4km south of the tiny village of San Rafael.

Centro Turístico Cayuco (2662-0868; d with/without air-con US$15/10; ) This is a popular option with vacationing Ticos as there’s an onsite pool, hot spring, restaurant and bar, all 200m north of the mining statue. Unfortunately, the pool barely looks swimmable, and the hot spring is a concrete dish that’s fed by a pipe bearing ‘springwater’ of dubious origins. The rooms, however, are decent, and have cable TV and private bathroom with cold water.

Pueblo Antiguo Lodge & Spa (2662-0033; www.puebloantiguo.com; s/d incl breakfast US$50/64; ) This rustic mountain getaway next to the Ecomuseo caters to tourists looking for a rejuvenating escape; and its onsite hot springs, swimming pool, Jacuzzi, sauna, nature trails and restaurant ensure you will be sufficiently entertained (and relaxed). Ten rooms in wooden cabins have private bathroom and scenic mountain views, and there’s a good chance wildlife will appear on your front doorstep. The friendly staff members also arrange tours to the nearby Ecomuseo and gold mines.

Restaurante Los Mangos (2662-0410; mains ₡1500-3000; 11am-2am Tue-Sun) The nicest restaurant in town (we know it’s run-down, but there aren’t exactly a lot of options here) is on the main road, and does your standard mix of casados, ceviche and fried chicken, and it’ll get you liquored up at night.

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Getting There & Away

Buses from Cañas (₡400, 45 minutes) depart at 9:30am and 2:15pm. Buses to San José (₡2500, three hours) depart at 8:30am, 10:30am and 3pm. There are no buses to the Ecomuseo, but a taxi will cost about ₡2300 one way.

Drivers