Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [153]
MONTEVERDE CHEESE FACTORY
Until the recent upswing in ecotourism, Monteverde’s number-one employer was this cheese factory (La Lechería; 2645-5522; tours adult/child US$10/8; tours 9am & 2pm Mon-Sat, store open 7:30am-5pm Mon-Sat, 7:30am-4pm Sun), also called La Lechería (The Dairy). Started in 1953 by Monteverde’s original Quaker settlers, the factory produces everything from a creamy Gouda to a very nice sharp, white cheddar, sold all over the country, as well as other dairy products such as yogurt and, most importantly, ice cream. If you’ve got a hankering for something sweet, our favorite treat is the coffee milk shake. Reservations are required for the two-hour tour of the factory.
Stop by the small, attached shop for a cone of soft-serve scrumptiousness here or at a few other select locations around town, including Sabores. The shop also sells deli meats, homemade granola and other picnic goodies, and you can watch cheese being made through the big window.
SELVATURA
The makers of eco-fun really went all out at Selvatura (2645-5929, 2645-6200; www.selvatura.com; admission hummingbird garden US$5, butterfly garden US$12, reptile museum US$12, hanging bridges adult/student/child under 12yr US$25/20/15, canopy tour adult/student/child under 12yr US$45/35/30; 7:30am-4pm), a huge ecocomplex 150m from Reserva Santa Elena and approximately 12km northeast of Santa Elena, complete with butterfly and hummingbird gardens, a herpetarium (reptiles and amphibian museum), a canopy tour (Click here) and a series of hanging bridges. The star attraction is the slightly overwhelming Jewels of the Rainforest Exhibition. This exhibition houses the world’s largest private collection of the strangest and most stunning insects you’ve ever seen. The exhibit is the life’s work of entomologist Richard Whitten (with a little help from his wife, Margaret), and is masterfully presented using a combination of art, video and music. If you only have time for one sight in Monteverde, this is the one. Check the website for package deals.
COFFEE PLANTATIONS
Coffee-lovers will be excited to find some of the finest coffee in the world right here. Late April is the best time to see the fields in bloom, while the coffee harvest (done entirely by hand) takes place from December to February. Any time is a good time to see how your favorite beverage makes the transition from ruby-red berry to smooth black brew. Advance reservations are required for all tours, which you can book direct by phone or through many hotels. Most charge about US$30 for adults, including transportation to the fincas.
Café Monteverde (2645-5901; www.monteverde-coffee.com) Run by Cooperative Santa Elena, this highly recommended tour takes visitors to coffee fincas that use entirely organic methods to grow the perfect bean. You can help pick some beans, after which you’ll be brought to the beneficio (coffee mill), where you can watch as the beans are washed and dried, roasted and then packed. Of course, you’ll also get to taste the final product with a snack. The cafe (open from 7:30am to 6pm) itself offers free samples of six roasts, or buy some beans to take home.
Coopeldós (2693-8441; www.coopeldos.com) This cooperative of 450 small and medium-sized, organic coffee growers is Fairtrade-certified. One of their main clients is Starbucks. It’s about halfway between Tilarán and Monteverde.
Don Juan Coffee Tour (2645-7100; www.donjuancoffeetour.com) Book this two-hour tour at their downtown shop near the SuperCompro.
El Trapiche (2645-5834; www.eltrapichetour.com; tours 10am & 3pm Mon-Sat, 3pm Sun) This reader-recommended, family-run coffee plantation also grows sugar cane.