Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [155]
The effort has allowed for one fabulous trail that hooks into a system of unimproved trails that are primarily for researchers, the 3.5km Sendero Bajo del Tigre (Jaguar Canyon Trail), which offers more open vistas than do those in the cloud forest, so spotting birds tends to be easier. The reason is that a good portion of the surrounding area was clear-cut during the mid-20th century, though there has been significant regrowth since it was granted protected status. The resulting landscape is known as premontane forest, which is unique in Costa Rica as most things that are cut down stay cut down. Visitors also report that wildlife-watching tends to be better here than in the reserves at Monteverde or Santa Elena since the tourist volume is considerably lower.
Make reservations in advance for the popular night hikes, which set off at 5:30pm for a two-hour trek by flashlight (bring your own) through a sea of glowing red eyes. The Estación Biológica San Gerardo at the end of the trail has dorm beds for researchers and students, but you may be able to stay overnight with prior arrangements. If you’re looking for a good volunteer program, the administration of the Bosque Eterno de los Niños is always looking for help.
Offering hikes of varying lengths, Santuario Ecológico (Ecological Sanctuary; 2645-5869; admission adult/student/child US$10/8/6, guided night tour US$15/12/10; 7am-5:30pm) has four loop trails (the longest takes about 2½ hours at a slow pace) through private property comprising premontane and secondary forest, coffee and banana plantations, and past a couple of waterfalls and lookout points. Coati, agouti and sloth are seen on most days, and monkey, porcupine and other animals are also common. Bird-watching is also good. Guided tours are available throughout the day, but you’ll see even more animals on the guided night tours (5:30pm to 7:30pm).
An 81-hectare private reserve, Reserva Sendero Tranquilo (Tranquil Path Reserve; 2645-5010; admission US$20; tours 7:30am & 1pm) is located between the Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso Monteverde and the Río Guacimal. Trails here are narrow to allow for minimal environmental impact, and the group size is capped at six people, which means you won’t have to worry about chattering tourists scaring away all the animals. The trails pass through four distinct types of forest, including a previously destroyed area that’s starting to bud again.
Sendero Valle Escondido (Hidden Valley Trail; 2645-6601; day use US$5, night tour adult/child US$20/10; 7am-4pm) begins behind the Pensión Monteverde Inn and slowly winds its way through a deep canyon into an 11-hectare reserve. In comparison with the more popular reserves, Valle Escondido is quiet during the day and relatively undertouristed, so it’s a good trail for wildlife-watching. However, the reserve’s two-hour guided night tour (at 5:30pm) is very popular, so it’s best to make reservations for this in advance.
Take a free hike up Cerro Amigos (1842m) for good views of the surrounding rainforest and, on a clear day, of Volcán Arenal, 20km away to the northeast. Near the top of the mountain, you’ll pass by the TV towers for channels 7 and 13. The trail leaves Monteverde from behind Hotel Belmar and ascends roughly 300m in 3km. From the hotel, take the dirt road going downhill, then the next left. Note that this trail does not connect to the trails in the Monteverde reserve, so you will have to double back.
Another popular (but strenuous) hike is to visit the Catarata San Luis, a gorgeous ribbon of