Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [164]
Hotel Fonda Vela (2645-5125; www.fondavela.com; s/d US$109/120, junior ste US$120/141, extra person US$9; ) With a convenient location near the Monteverde reserve, unique architectural styling, 14 hectares of trail-laden grounds and a private stable, this classy retreat is a sophisticated home base for enjoying the pleasures of the area. Standard rooms are spacious and light, with wood accents and large windows; and the suites are among the nicest rooms in town, featuring bathtub, balcony and sitting room with huge TV. Many rooms are wheelchair-accessible. The restaurant (mains US$8 to US$16; open from 6:15am to 9am, noon to 2pm and 6:30pm to 8:30pm) is open to the public, and recommended for its excellent food that emphasizes fresh, local ingredients. The hotel is owned by the two sons of Paul Smith, who first arrived in Monteverde in the 1950s and is a well-known local artist whose work graces the walls.
Hotel El Sapo Dorado (2645-5010; www.sapodorado.com; s/d incl breakfast US$116/138, extra person US$30; ) This hotel is owned by the Arguedas family, which first settled in the Monteverde area 10 years prior to the Quakers. Today the family is extremely active in the community, and they’re regular promoters of the virtues of sustainable tourism. The ‘Golden Toad’ has 30 spacious rooms mostly in duplex cabins. All have two queen-sized beds, a table and chairs, and private hot shower. Various deluxe suites have minibar, refrigerator and French doors that open to private terraces with views of the Golfo de Nicoya. The private forest behind the hotel has an extensive system of trails, and the restaurant (mains US$10 to US$20; open from 6:30am to 9am, noon to 3pm and 6pm to 9pm) is renowned for its use of locally grown produce and wide range of vegetarian dishes.
Hidden Canopy Treehouses (2645-5447; www.hiddencanopy.com; d garden rooms US$186, tree houses US$242-322, all incl breakfast & afternoon tea; ) One of the most unique accommodations in Costa Rica, this new boutique hotel lets guests live out their wildest childhood tree-house fantasies, but in a grown-up, blissfully luxurious setting. Hidden within 13 acres of private rainforest are four standalone, wood and glass tree houses, each with a unique floor plan, decor and name. All feature a treetop balcony, luxurious bedding, private bathroom, waterfall shower, custom-made furniture, paintings by local artist Stella, plus high-end amenities such as minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, alarm clock and safe. The two-level Eden tree house has a fireplace, glass-enclosed Jacuzzi and canopied bed – perfect for honeymooners. The Neverland tree house sleeps four and overlooks its own Koi pond and has 1½ baths. There are two less-expensive rooms in the main house, where breakfast and sunset teas are held. Simply put, American owner Jennifer and her Tico partner Christhiam have created one of the most romantic hotels we’ve ever seen.
El Establo Mountain Resort (2645-5110; www.hotelelestablo.com; d deluxe/ste incl breakfast US$194/267; ) This is a seriously upscale lodge offering a variety of rooms, which are among the most luxurious that the Monteverde-Santa Elena area has to offer. Deluxe rooms have an orthopedic mattress, cable TV, fridge, safe and hair dryer. Junior suites have all of those amenities in addition to split bathroom and sitting area, while the open-plan suites are A-frame lofts with private terraces. Some of the suites have Jacuzzi tubs facing wonderful views, while others have private flagstone terraces. Other amenities include a spa, two indoor pools, two restaurants, hiking trails, and tennis and basketball courts. It’s a steep hike to the best rooms, but the resort runs a shuttle on request.
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Eating
The top-end hotels in town often have good restaurants, most of which are open to the public. Santa Elena has most of the budget eateries in the area.
The giant SuperCompro (2758-7351; 7am-9pm) grocery store in Santa Elena has everything you could possibly