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much larger crowds. Also, most visitors come to Monteverde (and Santa Elena) expecting to see wildlife. However, both reserves cover large geographic areas, which means that the animals have a lot of space to move around in. Taking a night tour or staying overnight in one of the lodges deep within the reserve will maximize your chances of spotting wildlife; still, it’s best to enter the parks without any expectations. The trees themselves are primitive and alone worth the price of admission, though a lot has changed since the quetzal-spotting days of 1983. The animals have adapted to the increased tourist volume by avoiding the main trails, but most people who visit either reserve are more than satisfied with the whole experience.

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Information

The visitors center (2645-5122; www.cct.or.cr; park entry adult/student & child/child under 6yr US$17/9/free; 7am-4pm) is adjacent to the reserve gift shop, where you can get information and buy trail guides, bird and mammal lists, and maps. The shop also sells T-shirts, beautiful color slides by Richard Laval, postcards, books, posters and a variety of other souvenirs, and rents binoculars (US$10); you’ll need to leave your passport. The annual rainfall here is about 3000mm, though parts of the reserve reportedly get twice as much. It’s usually cool, high temperatures around 18°C (65°F), so wear appropriate clothing.

It’s important to remember that the cloud forest is often cloudy (!) and the vegetation is thick – this combination cuts down on sound as well as vision. Also keep in mind that main trails in this reserve are among the most trafficked in Costa Rica. Some readers have been disappointed with the lack of wildlife sightings. The best bet is, as always, to hire a guide.

The reserve is supported by donations through the Friends of Monteverde Cloud Forest (Map; www.friendsofmonteverde.org).

If you’re looking for a volunteer opportunity, you could try the Cloud Forest School (Map; 2645-5161; www.cloudforestschool.org), a kindergarten-through-11th-grade bilingual school locally known as the Centro de Educación Creativa (Center for Creative Education). The school was founded in 1991 to increase educational opportunities for a growing population of school-age children in the area. This independent school offers creative, experiential education to 220 students with an emphasis on integrating environmental education into all aspects of the school. For more information about volunteering as well as a few intern positions, you can contact the Volunteer Coordinator at opportunities@cloudforestschool.org.

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Activities

HIKING

There are 13km of marked and maintained trails – a free map is provided with your entrance fee. The most popular of the nine trails, suitable for day hikes, make a rough triangle (El Triángulo) to the east of the reserve entrance. The triangle’s sides are made up of the popular Sendero Bosque Nuboso (1.9km), an interpretive walk (booklet ₡400 at gate) through the cloud forest that begins at the ranger station, paralleled by the more open, 2km El Camino, a favorite of bird-watchers. The Sendero Pantanoso (1.6km) forms the far side of El Triángulo, traversing swamps, pine forests and the continental divide. Returning to the entrance, Sendero Río (2km) follows the Quebrada Cuecha past a few photogenic waterfalls.

Bisecting the triangle, the gorgeous Chomogo Trail (1.8km) lifts hikers 150m to 1680m, the highest point in the triangle, and other little trails crisscross the region, including the worthwhile Sendero Brillante (300m), with bird’s-eye views of a miniature forest. There’s also a 100m suspension bridge about 1km from the ranger station. However, keep in mind that despite valiant efforts to contain crowd sizes, these shorter trails are among the most trafficked in the country, and wildlife learned long ago that the region is worth avoiding unless they want a good look at hominids.

There are also more substantial hikes, including trails to the three backcountry shelters (Click here) that begin