Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [184]
There are more than 200 bird species, including the great curassow, a chickenlike bird that is hunted for food and is endangered, as well as other endangered species including the king vulture, scarlet macaw and jabirú stork. Much like Palo Verde, Lomas de Barbudal is also home to a variety of mammal species as well as some enormous crocodiles – you might want to leave your swimsuit at home.
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Orientation & Information
At the reserve entrance, there’s a small information center (2671-1029; reserve admission by donation; 7am-4pm), though the actual reserve is on the other side of the Río Cabuyo, behind the museum. The infrastructure of the park is less geared to tourists than at Palo Verde, though there is a small network of hiking trails that radiates from the information center. A small map is provided. It is not possible to overnight in the park and backcountry hiking is not permitted.
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Getting There & Away
The turnoff to Lomas de Barbudal from the Interamericana is near the small community of Pijije, 14km southeast of Liberia or 12km northwest of Bagaces. It’s 7km to the entrance of the reserve. The road is unpaved, but open all year – some steep sections may require 4WD in rainy season. Buses between Liberia and Cañas can drop you at the turnoff to the reserve.
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LIBERIA
pop 45,300
Well, the secret’s out. Before the boom in Costa Rican tourism, deciphering the bus timetables and fighting your way through the crowds at the Coca-Cola terminal in San José was a rite of passage for the uninitiated traveler. Even just a few years ago, getting to the beaches on the Península de Nicoya took determination, patience and – depending on the state of Costa Rica’s dreadful roads – a little luck. These days, though, travelers are getting their first glimpse of pura vida Costa Rica at Liberia’s own Aeropuerto Internacional Daniel Oduber Quirós, which is roughly the size of a Wal-Mart parking lot, but more of a breeze to exit.
Previously, the sunny capital of Guanacaste served as a transportation hub connecting Liberia with both borders, as well as the standard-bearer of Costa Rica’s sabanero culture (see boxed text). Even today, a large part of the greater Liberia area is involved in ranching operations, but tourism is fast becoming a significant contributor to the economy. Liberia has long been a base for visiting the nearby volcanoes, national parks and beaches, and nowadays the sight of gringos heading for their second homes in Tamarindo, or surfers toting their boards, is commonplace.
For now, Liberia is a much safer and surprisingly chill alternative to San José, although the government is looking to expand the airport in several years, with an eye to accommodating as much traffic, or more, as Juan Santamaría airport.
Liberia is still a great base for exploring the attractions in the northwest and the beaches of the Península de Nicoya. And, though most of the historic buildings in the city center are a little rough around the edges and in desperate need of a paint job, the ‘white city’ is a pleasant one, with a good range of accommodations and services for travelers on all budgets. The streets in downtown Liberia are surprisingly well signed, a rarity in Costa Rica.
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Information
INTERNET ACCESS
Cyberm@nia (2666-7240; Av 1 btwn Calles 2 & Central; per hr ₡600; 8am-10pm) With the friendliest staff ever, this spot is also good for cheap long-distance calls, charging ₡150 per minute to most parts of the world.
Planet Internet (2665-3737; Calle Central btwn Avs Central & 2; per hr ₡560; 9am-9pm; ) Has speedy machines in a spacious, frigidly air-conditioned room; also offers internet calls.
MEDICAL SERVICES
Hospital Dr Enrique Baltodano Briceño (2666-0011, emergencies 2666-0318) Behind the stadium on the northeastern outskirts of town.
MONEY
Most