Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [191]
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Activities
WILDLIFE-WATCHING
The wildlife of the park is extremely varied. Almost 300 species of bird have been recorded here, including curassow, quetzal, bellbird, parrot, toucan, hummingbird, owl, woodpecker, tanager, motmot, dove and eagle.
Insects range from beautiful butterflies to annoying ticks. Be especially prepared for ticks in grassy areas – long trousers tucked into boots and long-sleeved shirts offer some protection. A particularly interesting insect is a highland cicada that burrows into the ground and croaks like a frog, to the bewilderment of naturalists.
Mammals are equally varied; deer, armadillo, peccary, skunk, squirrel, coati and three species of monkey make frequent appearances. Tapir tracks are often found around the lagoons near the summit. Several of the wild cat species have been recorded here, including the jaguar, puma, ocelot and margay, but you’ll need patience and good fortune to observe one of these.
HIKING
A circular trail east of Las Pailas (about 3km in total) takes you past the boiling mud pools (Las Pailas), sulfurous fumaroles and a volcancito (which may subside at any time). About 700m west of the ranger station along the Sendero Cangreja is a swimming hole, which is prescribed for lowering your body temperature after too much time in the hot springs. Further away along the same trail are several waterfalls – the largest, Catarata La Cangreja, 5km west, is a classic, dropping straight from a cliff into a small lagoon where you can swim. Dissolved copper salts give the falls a deep blue color. This trail winds through forest, then on to open grassland on the volcano’s flanks, where you can enjoy views as far as the Golfo de Nicoya. The slightly smaller Cataratas Escondidas (Hidden Waterfalls) are 4.3km west on a different trail.
The longest and most adventurous hike in the area is the 16km round-trip trek to the summit of Rincón de la Vieja and to nearby Laguna de Jilgueros, which is reportedly where you may see tapirs – or more likely their footprints, if you are observant. The majority of this hike follows a ridge trail, and is known for being extremely windy and cloudy – come prepared for the weather. It’s also advised that you hire a guide from the ranger station or a nearby hotel as the trail is dotted with sulfurous hot springs and geysers, and hikers have been severely burned (and occasionally boiled) in the past.
From the Santa María ranger station, a trail leads 2.8km west through the ‘enchanted forest’ and past a waterfall to sulfurous hot springs with supposedly therapeutic properties. Don’t soak in them for more than about half an hour (some people suggest much less) without taking a dip in one of the nearby cold springs to cool off. An observation point is 450m east of the station.
SIMBIOSIS SPA
Affiliated with Hacienda Guachipelín, this spa (2666-8075; www.simbiosis-spa.com; admission US$15; 9am-5:30pm) is also open to the public. With spring-fed hot pools, volcanic mud, a sauna, showers and lounge chairs, all in a natural outdoor setting, this is a lovely place to unwind. You can also arrange massages and spa treatments (US$35 to US$75) on the spot, though it’s recommended you reserve ahead.
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Tours
All of the tourist lodges can arrange a number of tours, including horseback riding (US$25 to US$35), mountain biking (US$10 to US$30), guided waterfall and hot-springs hikes (US$15 to US$25), rappelling (US$20 to US$50), rafting and tubing on the lesser-known Río Colorado (US$45 to US$60), hanging bridges (US$15 to US$20) and everyone’s favorite cash-burner, canopy tours (US$30 to US$50). Rates vary depending on the season, and there are a number of package deals available. If