Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [194]
Santa Rosa was again the site of battles between Costa Rican troops and invading forces from Nicaragua in both 1919 and 1955. The first was a somewhat honorable attempt to overthrow the Costa Rican dictator General Federico Tinoco, while the second was a failed coup d’état led by Nicaraguan dictator Anastasio Somoza. Today, you can still see Somoza’s abandoned tank, which lies in a ditch beside the road just beyond the entrance to the park. However, the military history surrounding the park didn’t end with Somoza, as Santa Rosa was later used as a staging point for the US military during the Sandinistas–Contra war.
Although the park was established mainly due to historical and patriotic reasons, in a surprising coincidence Santa Rosa has also become extremely important to biologists. Upon seeing its acacia thorn trees and tall jaragua grass, first impressions of the park are likely to make you believe you’ve suddenly landed in the African savanna, though closer inspection reveals more American species of plants, including cacti and bromeliads. Santa Rosa is also home to Playa Nancite, which is famous for its arribadas (mass nesting) of olive ridley sea turtles that sometimes number up to 8000 at a single time.
However, a good number of travelers are here for one reason – the chance to surf the near-perfect beach break at Playa Naranjo, which is created by the legendary offshore monolith known as Witch’s Rock (also known locally as Roca Bruja). The park is also home to another break of arguably equal fame, namely Ollie’s Point, which was immortalized in the film Endless Summer II, and is named after US Marine Lieutenant Colonel Oliver North. North is most famous for illegally selling weapons to Iran during the Reagan Era, and using the profits to fund the Contras in Nicaragua – Ollie’s Point refers to the nearby troop staging area that everyone but the US Congress knew about.
Difficult access means that Santa Rosa is fairly empty, though it can get reasonably busy on weekends in the dry season when Ticos flock to the park in search of their often-hard-to-find history. In the wet months from July through December, particularly September and October, you’ll often have the park virtually to yourself.
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Orientation & Information
Parque Nacional Santa Rosa’s entrance is on the west side of the Interamericana, 35km north of Liberia and 45km south of the Nicaragua border. The Santa Rosa Sector park entrance (2666-5051; admission US$10, camping per person US$2; 8am-4pm) is close to the Interamericana, and it’s another 7km to park headquarters, with the administrative offices, scientists’ quarters, an information center, three basic campgrounds, museum and nature trail. This office administers the Area de Conservación Guanacaste (ACG).
From this complex, a very rough track leads down to the coast to Playa Naranjo, 12km away. Even during the dry season, this road is only passable to a high-clearance 4WD, and you must sign a waiver at the park entrance stating that you willingly assume all liability for driving this road. The park also requires that you be completely self-sufficient should you choose to undertake the trip, which means bringing all your own water and knowing how to do your own car repair. The rangers simply do not have the resources to bail you out or perform vehicle repair if you get into trouble. During the rainy months (May to November), the road is open to hikers and horses but closed to all vehicles; if you want to surf here, it’s infinitely easier to gain access to the beach by hiring a boat from Playa del Coco or Tamarindo,