Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [196]
The variety of wildlife reflects the variety of habitat protected within the boundaries of the park. Apart from the largest remaining stand of tropical dry forest in Central America, habitats include savanna woodland, oak forest, deciduous forest, evergreen forest, riparian forest, mangrove swamp and coastal woodland.
HIKING
Near Hacienda Santa Rosa is El Sendero Indio Desnudo, a 1km trail with signs interpreting the ecological relationships among the animals, plants and weather patterns of Santa Rosa. The trail is named after the common tree, also called gumbo limbo, whose peeling orange-red bark can photosynthesize during the dry season, when the trees’ leaves are lost (resembling a sunburned tourist…or ‘naked Indian,’ as the literal translation of the trail name implies). Also seen along the trail is the national tree of Costa Rica, the guanacaste. The province is named after this huge tree species, which is found along the Pacific coastal lowlands. You may also see birds, monkeys, snakes, iguanas, as well as petroglyphs (most likely pre-Columbian) etched into some of the rocks on the trail.
Behind La Casona a short trail leads up to the Monumento a Los Héroes and a lookout platform. There are also longer trails through the dry forest, including a gentle 4km hike to the Mirador, with spectacular views of Playa Naranjo, which is accessible to hikers willing to go another 9km along the deeply rutted road to the sea. The main road is lined with short trails to small waterfalls and other photogenic natural wonders as well.
From the southern end of Playa Naranjo, there are two hiking trails – Sendero Carbonal is a 20km trail that swings inland and then terminates on the beach at Cerros Carbonal, while Sendero Aceituno parallels Playa Naranjo for 13km and terminates near the estuary across from Witch’s Rock. There’s also a 6km hiking trail that starts where the northern branch of the access road terminates – this leads to the biological research station at Nancite; you’ll need prior permission to access this beach.
Although it’s not officially recommended by the park service, the opportunities for long-distance beach hiking abound, especially if you’re an experienced hiker who’s prepared to carry large quantities of food and water. Inquire locally about the feasibility of long-distance trekking (especially in regards to permanent water sources). We have heard a rumor that it’s possible to hike from Santa Rosa to Playa del Coco (if you make it, let us know!).
SURFING
The surfing at Playa Naranjo is truly world-class, especially near Witch’s Rock, a beach break famous for its fast, hollow 3m rights (although there are also fun lefts when it isn’t pumping). Beware of rocks near the river mouth, and be careful near the estuary as it’s a rich feeding ground for crocodiles during the tide changes. The surfing is equally legendary at Ollie’s Point off Playa Portero Grande, which has the best right in all of Costa Rica with a nice, long ride, especially with a south swell. The bottom here is a mix of sand and rocks, and the year-round offshore is perfect for tight turns and slow closes. Shortboarding is preferred by surfers at both spots.
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Sleeping & Eating
There’s a shady developed campground (per person US$2) close to the park headquarters, with picnic benches, grills, flushing toilets and cold-water showers. Playa Naranjo has pit toilets and showers, but no potable water – bring your own. Other camping areas in the park are undeveloped. There’s a 25-person, two-night maximum for camping at Playa Naranjo. There’s also a small campsite with pit toilets and showers near the ranger station in the Sector Murciélago, though you’ll have to carry in your own food and water.