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Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [226]

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par-72 course that was designed by noted architect Mike Young. Greens fees are US$125/165 per person during the low/high season. If you just want to practice your skills, head to Tamarindo Diria’s driving range, located by the Tamarindo airstrip.

SAILING

For sunset and day-long sailing excursions, book in advance by phone or online with Blue Dolphin Sailing (2653-0867, 8842-3204; www.sailbluedolphin.com). Reader-recommended trips on Captain Jeff’s catamaran include a 4½ hour snorkel and sunset sail (US$75/38 per adult/child under 12) with gear, open bar and snacks.

SKATEBOARDING

If you happen to have your deck with you, there’s a fun little one-bowl skate park behind the Voodoo Lounge.

SPORTFISHING

There are more than 30 fishing outfitters offering a variety of tour packages. Prices vary wildly depending on boat size and other factors, but expect to pay at least US$400 for a half-day tour. Just about any tour office can help you book a fishing trip, or look for flyers around town. One highly recommended resource is Diego Caicedo of Tamarindo Bay Tours (8821-9978; tamarindobaytours@hotmail.com). With more than 20 years of experience, Diego is a walking wiki of the Tamarindo fishing scene. He knows every boat and captain in town and will help you pick the perfect tour to fit your needs without trying to overssell. He’ll even arrange to cook your catch.

SURFING

The most popular wave in Tamarindo is a medium-sized right that breaks directly in front of the Tamarindo Diria hotel. The waters here are full of virgin surfers learning to pop up, most of whom can’t help but play aquatic bumper cars. There is also a good left that’s fed by the river mouth, though be advised that crocodiles are occasionally sighted here, particularly when the tide is rising (which is, coincidentally, the best time to surf). You’ll have to get a local to let you in on some of their favorite spots, as we’re not going to ruin it for them.

More advanced surfers will appreciate the bigger, faster and less crowded waves at Playa Langosta (on the other side of the point), Playas Avellanas and Negra and Junquillal (Click here) to the south, and Playa Grande to the north. Note that the best months for surfing coincide with the rainy season.

A number of surf schools and tour operators line the main stretch of the road in Tamarindo. Surf lessons hover at around US$40 for 1½ to two hours, and most operators will let you keep the board for a few hours beyond that to practice. All outfits can organize day-long and multiday excursions to popular breaks, rent equipment and give surf lessons.

Banana Surf Club (2653-0130/2463; www.bananasurfclub.com; 8am-6pm) This Argentine-run outfit has fair prices on new and used boards.

Blue Trailz (2653-0114; rasurfshop@yahoo.com; 7am-7pm) One of the largest and best shops in town, it offers lessons and trips and rents surfboards, bodyboards and skimboards.

Costa Rica Surf Club (2653-1270; www.costaricasurfclub.com; 8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-7pm Sun) Two locations in town offering rentals, lessons, repairs and sales. The main location by Sharky’s even has a falafel stand.

Witch’s Rock Surf Camp (2653-0239; www.witchsrocksurfcamp.com; 8am-8pm) Board rentals, surf camps, lessons and regular excursions to Witch’s Rock and Ollie’s Point are available, though they’re pricey. There are beachside accommodations for surfers who sign up for multiday packages.

SAVING TAMARINDO

The price of blithely disregarding the pressure on Tamarindo’s environment is coming due. At the end of 2007 Playa Tamarindo lost its Bandera Azul Ecológica (Ecological Blue Flag) designation, which marked it as a community with high water quality, safety and environmental responsibility. Frankly, it was about time the flag got pulled, as it was an open secret that the water quality had been deteriorating.

Tamarindo was teetering on the brink of sustainability. The levels of fecal contamination were so high that visitors were warned against swimming or surfing. Losing the Bandera Azul, and watching the alarming spate of high-density construction

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