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Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [231]

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bent, featuring fresh items such as pork chop with chipotle-apple chutney and the Thai-style crispy fish cake with curried corn. Linger a while over your wine and perhaps you can also find room for a divine dessert.

Seasons by Shlomy (8368-6983; www.hotelarcoiris.com; mains ₡6600-8500, fixed-price menu ₡14,000; 6-10pm Mon-Sat) Don’t leave town without eating here – it may be the best meal you have in Costa Rica. Israeli chef Shlomy serves innovative dishes with Mediterranean accents that change daily depending on the availability of local ingredients. One of our favorite plates was the Pacific yellow seared tuna in a chili marinade and honey glaze. Located at Hotel Arco Iris, the understated yet elegant open-air restaurant has indoor seating or romantic poolside tables. The food and service here are simply impeccable. Reservations are recommended.

Carolina’s Fine Dining (2369-6834; mains ₡7700-14,300; 6-11pm Thu-Tue) This is one place worth the splurge. Sophisticated continental cuisine highlights skillfully prepared sauces, tender cuts of meat, delectable fish and an impressive selection of imported wines. To truly appreciate the culinary experience, opt for the five-course tasting menu with a full wine tasting (₡38,000).


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Drinking & Entertainment

In Tamarindo, all you really have to do is follow the scene wherever it happens to be on that night. On weekends especially, cruising the main drag has the festive feel of a mini Mardi Gras or spring break. And nearly every bar hosts a ladies’ night, when women drink free for two hours.

Bars and clubs in this town come and go as often as the waves. Last season’s ‘it’ nightspot may be out the next, so we can’t promise this party place recap will be accurate when you visit. But starting on Friday, head to the Monkey Bar inside the Best Western Tamarindo Vista Villas for the ever-popular ladies’ night. Sharky’s is the place to be on Saturday, when crowds spill out onto the street for the Ladies’ 80’s Night. Pacífico is the best bet for dancing on Sunday and ladies’ night on Wednesday. On Thursday, reggae night at Babylon is a crazy party on the beach.

Aqua Disco is the only real nightclub in Tamarindo. The best nights for clubbing are Monday for ladies’ night, Wednesday for live salsa bands and Friday for after-hours dancing. It also has a sushi lounge upstairs.

For those looking for something a bit tamer, fear not. Nibbana and La Palapa are good beachside spots to have a quiet getting-to-know-you cocktail. La Barra is a popular bar for locals and gringos alike. The classy Bar 1 is a great people-watching spot from its open-air, 3rd-floor lounge at Plaza Tamarindo. Our favorite new place to chill is Le Beach Club, with beds and hammocks on the sand and live DJs on Saturday. There’s often live music on the weekends at Voodoo Lounge, which has a great outdoor bar and stage in the back; Tuesday is Latin night.

For the best (nonalcoholic) smoothies, juices and iced coffee, you can’t beat Mandarina (Plaza Esmeralda;8am-6pm), with two locations in town – the larger and better one is at Plaza Esmeralda near the entrance to town.

Cine-Mas (Plaza Tamarindo; adult/child ₡3000/2000; 9pm, plus 6pm matinee weekends) – get it? – is Tamarindo’s first movie theater. The intimate 24-seat cinema screens second-run films. It’s located below Bar 1.


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Getting There & Away

AIR

The airstrip is 3km north of town; a hotel bus is usually on hand to pick up arriving passengers, or you can take a taxi. During high season, Sansa has seven daily flights to and from San José (one way/return US$89/178), while NatureAir has three (US$96/192).

Sansa (2653-0012) has an office on the main road, and the travel desk at the Tamarindo Diria hotel can book trips on NatureAir. The airstrip belongs to the hotel and all passengers must pay a US$3 departure tax.

BUS

Buses for San José depart from the Empresas Alfaro office behind the Babylon bar. Other buses depart across the street from Zullymar Hostel. It’s possible to get to Montezuma or Mal Pa

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