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Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [233]

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Iguana Verde (2652-9045; r without bathroom per person US$10; ) About 50m from the beach on the road toward Playa Negra, these six cabinas are a bit dark but reasonably clean, with shared cold-water showers. The owner Josué also runs a great soda here, serving up excellent, inexpensive casados (set meals).

WHAT TO DO IF YOU’RE CAUGHT IN A RIPTIDE

Riptides account for the majority of ocean drownings, though a simple understanding of how these currents behave can save your life. Rip currents are formed when excess water brought to shore by waves returns to the sea in a rapidly moving depression in the ocean floor. They are comprised of three parts: the feeder current, the neck and the head.

The feeder current consists of rapidly moving water that parallels the shore, though it’s not always visible from the beach. When this water reaches a channel, it switches direction and flows out to sea, forming the neck of the rip. This is the fastest-moving part of the riptide, and can carry swimmers out to sea at a speed of up to 10km/h. The head of the riptide occurs past the breakers where the current quickly dissipates.

If you find yourself caught in a riptide, immediately call for help as you only have a few seconds before being swept out to sea. However, it’s important to conserve your energy and not to fight the current – this is the principal cause of drownings. It’s almost impossible to swim directly back to shore. Instead, try one of two methods for escaping a rip. The first is to tread water and let yourself be swept out past the breakers. Once you’re in the head of the rip, you can swim out of the channel and ride the waves back to shore. Or you can swim parallel or diagonally to the shore until you’re out of the channel.

Rip currents usually occur on beaches that have strong surf, though temporary rips can occur anywhere, especially when there is an offshore storm or during low tide. Fortunately, there are indicators, such as the brownish color on the surface of the water that is caused by swept-up sand and debris. Also look for surface flattening, which occurs when the water enters a depression in the ocean floor and rushes back out to sea. If you’re ever in doubt about the safety of a beach, inquire locally about swimming conditions.

Remember, rips are fairly survivable as long as you relax, don’t panic and conserve your energy.

Casa Surf (2652-9075; www.casa-surf.com; r without bathroom per person US$12; ) Look for the ‘Casa Surf’ across from Cabinas Las Olas, and pull over – if not for espresso and yummy banana bread, then for a clean, quiet place to stay. Run lovingly by Giovanni and Eve, a Tico-Swiss surfer couple, this place has five simple rooms with shared bathroom and a full kitchen. They also offer surfboard and bike rentals (US$10 per day), surf lessons (US$30), language classes (US$12 per hour) and professional board repair. The bakery is open in high season only, but breakfast and dinner are available for guests year-round. And as Eve is a vegetarian, you’ll find plenty of meat-free choices.

Las Avellanas Villas (2652-9212; www.lasavellanasvillas.com; d/tr/q US$65/75/85; ) Stunningly designed by Costa Rican architect Victor Cañas, these four casitas (cottages) are covetable as permanent residences. With an aesthetic balancing of the interior environment with the exterior, they have sunken stone floors crossed by wooden bridges, open-air showers, and large windows looking out on front and back terraces. The casitas have full kitchens, but dinner is available, and the grounds are just 300m from the beach.

Mauna Loa Surf Resort (2652-9012; www.hotelmaunaloa.com; d US$70; ) This pleasant Italian-run spot is a great place for families, with a secure location that’s a straight shot to the beach. Paths lead from the pool area through a well-tended garden, and the cute bungalows have orthopedic beds and hammocks hanging on the terraces.

Cabinas Las Olas (2652-9315; www.cabinaslasolas.co.cr; s/d/tr US$81/93/105; ) On the road from San José de Pinilla into Avellanas, this pleasant hotel is set on spacious

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