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stunning and mostly deserted – probably because the surf is high and the rips are fierce. It’s best to leave your swimming trunks at home, though there are clean lefts and rights when the waves drop a bit in size. Olive ridley turtles nest here from July to November, with a peak from August to October, though in smaller numbers than at the refuges; Junquillal is also an important nesting site for leatherbacks. Though Junquillal is not a protected area, conservation groups have teamed up with local communities to protect the nesting sites and eliminate poaching.

The nearest village is 4km inland at Paraíso, which has a few local sodas and bars. Accommodations are spread out along the beach.

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Sleeping & Eating

El Castillo Divertido (2658-8428; hotelcastillodivertido@hotmail.com; s/d US$30/40; ) On a hilltop about 500m down the road, you’ll find the entrance to this quirky inn owned by an affable German-Tica couple and son. The hotel’s rooftop bar has panoramic views – a breezy place to laze in a hammock. Paulo, one of the owners, plays his guitar for guests at sunset. Tiled rooms are clean and have hot showers, and it’s worth splurging for the ones with ocean views. The restaurant (dishes ₡2000 to ₡6000) has good breakfasts and dinners with plenty of German favorites.

Hotel Hibiscus (2658-8437; s/d/tr incl breakfast US$40/50/60; ) This charming German–Nica-run hotel has five spotless rooms with hammock-strung patios overlooking the palm-fringed garden. There’s a small restaurant withs a good variety of international cuisine, and the breakfasts are immense and delicious.

Mundo Milo Ecolodge (2658-7010; www.mundomito.com; d US$55;) This new Dutch-owned resort was partially opened during our visit but already showed lots of potential. The thatch-covered, open-air restaurant is open for lunch and dinner; Saturday night Latin dances attract locals and gringos alike. There is currently one African-motif cabin with with a hot-water bathroom and kitchenette, surrounded by trees full of howler monkeys.

Villa Roberta (2658-8127; dietzcon@racsa.co.cr; d incl breakfast US$58, apt US$87; ) This hospitable two-room B&B is intimate, quaint and full of personality, and its location in the trees makes it feel tranquil in the extreme. The room has a fridge, fan and open-air bathroom facing the jungle, where a monkey might spot you doing your business. The apartment sleeps four and has air-con, bidet, ‘his and hers’ sinks and a small kitchen. For long stays, Roberta rents Casa Bob (US$85 per night, three nights minimum) across the street, a fully furnished house that sleeps six and has a washer and dryer, full kitchen and a rooftop sundeck with partial sea views.

Hotel Tatanka (2658-8426, in USA & Canada 800-498-0824; www.hoteltatanka.com; s/d US$58/76; ) Ten ranch-style rooms with hot-water bathrooms are pretty in pink and have rustic wooden furnishings. There’s an inviting pool as well as an open-air pizzeria that serves authentic wood-fired pizza pies (₡2000 to ₡5000) in the evenings.

Guacamaya Lodge (2658-8431; www.guacamayalodge.com; s/d US$62/67, apt s/d/tr/q US$84/90/95/100, villas US$147; ) Next door to El Castillo, this quiet Swiss-run place has six quaint bungalows, a two-bedroom villa with a kitchen and four apartments with balcony views. There’s also a pool, tennis courts and a restaurant-bar with ocean views and a smattering of Swiss delicacies. The warm and wonderful brother and sister owners speak a remarkable six languages.

Hotel Iguanazul (2658-8124; www.hoteliguanazul.com; s/d/tr US$68/79/91, with air-con from US$91/102/113, with air-con & ocean view US$113/124/135, all incl breakfast; ) Don’t let the gaudy fountain out front put you off; the aesthetics at this well-established resort hotel are much more relaxed and attractive. The 24 brightly painted and cool, tiled rooms have garden or ocean views. Amenities include a pool, pool table, volleyball and a restaurant-bar with killer views.

Plumita Pacífica (2658-7125, 8335-5142; www.plumitapacifica.com; d US$75; ) When all you need is