Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [238]
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CENTRAL PENINSULA
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Long the political and cultural heart of Guanacaste, the inland region of the central peninsula looks and feels palpably more ‘Costa Rican’ than the beach resorts of the northern coast. Over the generations, the dry tropical forest has been cut down to make way for the sabaneros’ (cowboys) cattle, but stands of forest remain, interspersed between fincas (plantations) and coastal villages, sometimes backing stretches of wild, empty beaches.
Hwy 21 snakes through the higher elevations of the interior, from the population center of Santa Cruz down through Nicoya, where Hwy 150 branches southward toward Sámara in a winding road through the forest.
There is considerably less development in this region than in the north of the peninsula, though the areas around Sámara and Nosara are developing slowly. Most foreigners who are drawn to the rugged coastal landscapes of the central peninsula are actively committed to its conservation. This part of the coast is rife with secluded beaches, small villages where authenticity reigns, and endless possibilities for getting ‘off the map.’
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NICOYA
Situated 23km south of Santa Cruz, Nicoya was named after an indigenous Chorotega chief, who welcomed Spanish conquistador Gil González de Ávila in 1523 (a gesture he regretted – see boxed text). In the following centuries, the Chorotega were wiped out by the colonists, though the distinctive facial features of the local residents are a testament to their heritage.
Although Nicoya is in fact a colonial city, very little remains of the original architecture, and what is left is usually in a state of disrepair. However, Nicoya is one of the most pleasant cities in the region, and the bright buildings and bustling streets contribute to the welcoming atmosphere.
For travelers, Nicoya primarily serves as a transportation hub for the region, though the city is a good base for exploring Parque Nacional Barra Honda. It’s also a good base for visiting Puerto Humo, a small town about 27km northeast on the road past Coralillo that has good opportunities for bird-watching.
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Information
Alf@Net (2685-4182; Calle 1; per hr ₡500; 8am-10pm) Has air-con and roughly a dozen terminals with very good connections.
Area de Conservación Tempisque (ACT; 2685-5667; Av Central; 8am-4pm Mon-Fri) The office of the ACT can help with accommodations and cave exploration at Parque Nacional Barra Honda.
Banco de Costa Rica (Calle Central; 8:30am-3pm Mon-Fri) Exchanges US dollars.
Banco Popular (Calle 3; 9am-4:30pm Mon-Fri, 8:15-11:30am Sat) Exchanges US dollars. It also has a 24-hour ATM at Hospital La Anexión.
Cyber Center (Calle 1; per hr ₡400; 7am-10pm) Internet access.
Hospital La Anexión (2685-5066) The main hospital on the peninsula is north of town.
Internet Good Times (Av 2; per hr ₡400; 9am-10pm) Internet access.
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Sights
In Parque Central, a major town landmark, is the attractive white colonial Iglesia de San Blas, which dates back to the mid-17th century. The appealingly peaceful, wood-beamed church is under continuous restoration, and its mosaic tiles are crumbling, but it can be visited when mass (6pm Mon & Fri, 7am Tue, 7am & 7pm Thu) is not in session. It has a small collection of colonial religious artifacts, or have a look at the wooden Jesus with articulated joints and bleeding stigmata. The park outside is an inviting spot to people-watch from one of the shady stone benches.
On the opposite side of the park is La Casa de la Cultura. This small area has cultural exhibits a few times a year and features work by local artists. The exhibit schedule and hours of operation are erratic, but it’s worth a peek if the doors are open.
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Festivals & Events
The town goes crazy for Día de Guanacaste, on July 25, so expect plenty of food, music and beer in the plaza to celebrate the province’s annexation