Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [247]
Aside from turtle-watching, surfers can catch some good lefts and rights here just after low tide, though the beach is notorious for its strong currents and huge, crashing surf – it’s definitely not suitable for swimming unless you’re green and have flippers.
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Sleeping & Eating
Camping (per person US$3) is permitted behind the centrally located Soda La Plaza, which has a portable toilet available. The soda is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Cabinas Guacamaya (2682-0430; r without bathroom per person US$10; ) In the village of Ostional, this place has several small and dark rooms with shared cold showers, though you’ll be thrilled to spend the night here as demand is high during nesting season. The same folks run the attached pulpería, which can sell you basic supplies.
Cabinas Ostional (2682-0428; s/d/q US$12/24/36; ) The rooms are slightly better here, with private cold-water shower and a cozy garden. This place, too, fills up quickly.
Rancho Brovilla (2280-4919, 8821-5910; www.brovill.com; s US$35-45, d US$55-65, apt US$60-80, casas US$125-200, all incl breakfast; ) In the hills, 2km north of town, Rancho Brovilla is an upscale lodge that’s a world away from the more modest accommodations in Ostional. Rooms are adorned with stained-wood accents and come equipped with hot-water bathroom. There’s also a restaurant-bar (dishes ₡3100 to ₡11,000) featuring international food.
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Getting There & Away
Ostional village is about 8km northwest of Nosara village. During the dry months there are two daily buses from Santa Cruz (times change, so ask around), but at any time of the year the road can get washed out by rain. Hitchhiking from Nosara is reportedly easy.
If you’re driving, plan on taking a 4WD as a few rivers need to be crossed. From the main road joining Nosara beach and village, head north and cross the bridge over the Río Nosara. After the bridge, there’s a T-junction after about 2km; take the left fork (which is signed) and continue on the main road north to Ostional, about 6km away. There are several river crossings on the way to Ostional, so ask locally about conditions before setting out.
Beyond Ostional, the dirt road continues on to Marbella before arriving in Paraíso, northeast of Junquillal. Be careful and ask before attempting this drive and use a 4WD.
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PLAYA SáMARA
The crescent-shaped strip of pale-gray sand at Sámara is one of the most beloved beaches in Costa Rica – it’s safe, tranquil, reasonably developed and easily accessible by public transportation. Not surprisingly, you’ll find it’s popular with vacationing Tico families, backpackers, wealthy tourists, snorkelers and surfers alike (even Oscar Arias, the ex-president, has a vacation house near here). The calm waters make it an ideal destination for families.
In recent years the village has undergone a bit of a transformation. Sámara is becoming increasingly more sophisticated. Although the village is trying to hang on to the authenticity of its relaxed vibe, Sámara is one of the more sophisticated destinations in the central peninsula.
If you’ve got some extra time and a 4WD, explore the hidden beaches north of Sámara such as Playa Barrigona, equally famous for its pristine beach as for its celebrity resident, Mel Gibson.
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Information
Go to www.samarabeach.com to get the skinny on Sámara.
Banco Nacional (2656-0086; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri) Change money at this bank next to the church; there’s also an ATM.
Banco Popular A 24-hour ATM located on the north side of the soccer field.
Internet Sámara (2656-1102; per hr ₡1000; 9am-9pm) On the main road next to Bar Arriba.
Post Office (8am-noon & 1:15-5:30pm Mon-Fri) Located