Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [275]
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Eating
The cheapest food is available in the small stands and restaurants near the Palí supermarket. This area is also inhabited by sailors, drunks and prostitutes, but it seems raffish rather than dangerous – during the day, at least. Restaurants along the Paseo de los Turistas are, predictably, filled with turistas (tourists).
There’s a row of fairly cheap sodas on the beach by the Paseo de los Turistas, between Calle Central and Calle 3. They are good for people-watching, and serve snacks and nonalcoholic drinks. You’ll also find a collection of Chinese restaurants on Av 1 east of the church.
Self-caterers can head to the Palí supermarket (Calle 1 btwn Avs 1 & 3) to stock up on just about anything.
La Casona (cnr Av 1 & Calle 9; casados ₡2500-6000) This bright-yellow house is marked with a small, modest sign, but it’s an incredibly popular lunch spot, attracting countless locals who jam onto the large deck and into the interior courtyard. Portions are heaped, and soups are served in bathtub-sized bowls – bring your appetite.
Restaurante Kaite Negro (2661-2093; cnr Av 1 & Calle 17; dishes ₡3000-6500) On the north side of town, this rambling restaurant is popular with locals, and serves good seafood and a good variety of tasty bocas (appetisers). If you really want to see the place swinging, the open-air courtyard comes to life on weekends with live music and all-night dancing.
La Yunta Steakhouse (2661-3216; Paseo de los Turistas btwn Calles 19 & 21; meals ₡3500-7000) Your culinary mecca for every imaginable cut of meat has professional service, great ocean views and enough hunks of dead animal to arouse your doctor’s anger.
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Drinking & Entertainment
Entertainment in the port tends to revolve around boozing and flirting, though the occasional cultural offering does happen at La Casa de la Cultura. If you’re looking for the more traditional liquid entertainment, do as the Ticos do and head for the countless bars that line Paseo de los Turistas.
A time-honored spot for shaking some booty is Capitán Moreno’s (cnr Paseo de los Turistas & Calle 13), which has a huge dance floor right on the beach.
Another popular spot is El Oasis del Pacífico (cnr Paseo de los Turistas & Calle 5), which has a lengthy bar and a warehouse-sized dance floor.
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Getting There & Away
BOAT
Car and passenger ferries bound for Paquera and Playa Naranjo depart several times a day from the northwestern dock (Av 3 btwn Calles 31 & 33). (Other docks are used for private boats.) If you are driving and will be taking the car ferry, arrive at the dock early to get in line. The vehicle section tends to fill up quickly and you may not make it on. In addition, make sure that you have purchased your ticket from the walk-up ticket window before driving onto the ferry. You will not be admitted onto the boat if you don’t already have a ticket.
Schedules are completely variable, change seasonally (or even at whim), and can be affected by inclement weather. Check with the ferry office by the dock for any changes. Many of the hotels in town also have up-to-date schedules posted.
To Playa Naranjo (for transfer to Nicoya and points west), Coonatramar (2661-1069; northwestern dock) has several daily departures (adult/child/car ₡860/515/1850, two hours).
To Paquera (for transfer to Montezuma and Mal País), Ferry Peninsular (2641-0118; northwestern dock) also has several daily departures (adult/child/car ₡810/485/1900, two hours).
BUS
Buses for San José depart from the large navy-blue building on the north corner of Calle 2 and Paseo de los Turistas. Book your ticket ahead of time on holidays and weekends. Buses for other destinations leave from across the street, on the beach side of the Paseo.
Jacó ₡800; 1½ hours; departs 5am, 11am, 2:30pm and 4:30pm.
Quepos ₡2100; 3½ hours; departs 5am, 11am, 2:30pm and 4:30pm.
San José ₡1500; 2½ hours; departs every hour from 4am to 9pm.