Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [278]
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Sights
With the help of a hired guide, it’s possible to visit the archaeological remains of various indigenous burial sites located within the park, though they’re tiny and unexciting compared to anything you might see in Mexico or Guatemala. At the time of the Europeans’ arrival in Costa Rica, these sites were located in an area inhabited by an indigenous group known as the Huetar (Carara actually means ‘crocodile’ in the Huetar language). Unfortunately, not much is known about this group, as little cultural evidence was left behind. Today, the few remaining Huetar are confined to several small villages in the Central Valley.
If you’re driving from Puntarenas or San José, pull over to the left immediately after crossing the Río Tárcoles bridge, also known as Crocodile Bridge. If you scan the sandbanks below the bridge, you’ll have a fairly good chance of seeing as many as 30 basking crocodiles. Although they’re visible year-round, the best time for viewing is low tide during the dry season. Binoculars will help a great deal.
Crocodiles this large are generally rare in Costa Rica as they’ve been hunted vigorously for their leather. However, the crocs are tolerated here as they feature prominently in a number of wildlife tours that depart from Tárcoles. And of course, the crocs don’t mind as they’re hand-fed virtually every day.
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Activities
WILDLIFE-WATCHING
The most exciting bird for many visitors to see, especially in June or July, is the brilliantly patterned scarlet macaw, a rare bird that is common to Parque Nacional Carara. Their distinctive call echoes loudly through the canopy, usually moments before a pair of these soaring birds appear against the blue sky. If you’re having problems spotting them, it may help to inquire at the ranger’s station, which keeps tabs on where nesting pairs are located.
Dominated by open secondary forest punctuated by patches of dense, mature forest and wetlands, Carara offers some superb bird-watching. More than 400 different species of birds inhabit the reserve, though your chances of spotting rarer species will be greatly enhanced with the help of an experienced guide. Some commonly sighted species include orange-billed sparrow, five kinds of trogon, crimson-fronted parakeet, blue-headed parrot, golden-naped woodpecker, rose-throated becard, gray-headed tanager, long-tailed manikin and rufous-tailed jacamar (just to name a few!).
Birds aside, the trails at Carara are home to several mammal species, including red brocket, white-tailed deer, collared peccary, monkey, sloth and agouti. The national park is also home to one of Costa Rica’s largest populations of tayra, a weasel-like animal that scurries along the forest floor. And, although most travelers aren’t too keen on stumbling upon an American crocodile, some truly monstrous specimens can be viewed from a safe distance at the nearby Crocodile Bridge.
According to the park rangers, the best chance of spotting wildlife is at 7am, when the park opens.
HIKING
Some 600m south of the Crocodile Bridge on the left-hand side is a locked gate leading to the Sendero Laguna Meándrica trail. This trail penetrates deep into the reserve and passes through open, secondary forest and patches of dense, mature forest and wetlands. About 4km from the entrance is Laguna Meańdrica, which has large populations of heron, smoothbill and kingfisher. If you continue past the lagoon, you’ll have a good chance of spotting mammals and the occasional crocodile, though you will have to turn back to exit.
Another 2km south of the trailhead is the Carara ranger station (admission US$10; 7am-4pm), where you can get information and enter the park. There are bathrooms, picnic tables and a short nature trail. Guides can be hired