Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [284]
There are too many surf shops to list, and it seems like every store in town does ding repair and rents long boards. Six-time national surf champion Álvaro Solano runs the highly respected Vista Guapa Surf Camp (Map; 2643-2830, in USA 409-599-1828; www.vistaguapa.com), which is recommended by readers. Weekly rates including full board start at around US$1000.
SURF CASTING
Several shops in town rent fishing gear and sell bait for a few dollars each, and there are plenty of spots along the beach where you can crack a beer and try your luck. Surf casting is extremely popular with locals, so dust off your Spanish vocab and strike up a conversation or two.
HIKING
A popular local pastime is following the trail up Mt Miros, which winds through primary and secondary rainforest and offers spectacular views of Jacó and Playa Hermosa. The trail actually leads as far as the Central Valley, though you only need to hike for a few kilometers to reach the viewpoint. Note that the trailhead is unmarked, so ask a local to point it out to you.
GOT DRUGS, WILL TRAVEL
Drugs are plentiful in Costa Rica, and a good number of tourists would never give a second thought to lighting up a joint on the beach (or, more recently, blowing a line of coke in a discotheque). However, drugs are 100% illegal in Costa Rica, and if you are charged with possession, you can be fined and imprisoned depending on the severity of the offense. There are currently foreigners serving out lengthy prison terms, and occasionally a big drug bust will make the headlines. The bad news is that there is little your embassy can do on your behalf. The good news is that, as far as Latin American penal systems are concerned, there are places a hell of a lot worse than a Costa Rican jail.
Based on reports we’ve heard on the ground, the reality is that some police officers would rather collect a bribe than incarcerate a bunch of backpackers. Unlike other destinations on the fabled hippie trail, notably Morocco, Thailand and India, Costa Rica has a squeaky clean, ecofriendly image that it needs to uphold. Case in point: the last thing the government tourist board wants is the mugs of a bunch of teenagers plastered on the front pages of the international papers.
However, things are changing rapidly, and as more foreigners start packing their bags and heading to Costa Rica, you can expect that the supply will meet the demand. On beaches with a growing international party scene such as Jacó and Tamarindo, it’s possible to buy just about any drug on any street corner in any language. While marijuana once dominated the scene, the drug of choice has quite suddenly become cocaine. While travelers report that the price is cheap and the quality is high, it’s much harder for the authorities to turn a blind eye to coke possession.
The moral of the story is that at some point during your travels in Costa Rica, there is a good chance that you will be offered drugs. And there’s also a chance that if you’re reading this right now, you might say yes. So, remember to use your judgment, consider the consequences and don’t kid yourself: other travelers much like yourself have had their lives ruined by drugs or imprisonment, and they most definitely will not be the last…
HORSEBACK RIDING
Readers have reported incidents of horse abuse in Jacó, specifically operators using malnourished and mistreated animals. However, one recommended company is Discovery Horseback Tours (off Map;8838-7550; www.horseridecostarica.com; from $60), which is run by an English couple and offers an extremely high level of service and professionalism.
KAYAKING
If you’re interested in organized kayaking and sea canoeing trips that include snorkeling excursions to tropical islands, contact Kayak Jacó Costa Rica Outriggers (2643-1233; www.kayakjaco.com), which offers a wide variety of customized day and multiday