Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [289]
Sonidos del Mar (Map; 2643-3924/12; www.sonidosdelmar.com; Calle Hidalgo; house US$250; ) Howard and Lauri, a South African–American couple, will welcome you to their guesthouse as if you were family. And when you see their house, you’ll wish you were! Set within a mature garden at the bend of a river, ‘Sounds of the Ocean’ may be one of the most beautiful guesthouses in Costa Rica. Lauri is a skilled artist and a collector who has lovingly filled each room with original paintings, sculptures and indigenous crafts. The house itself is impeccable, incorporating stylistic elements such as vaulted Nicaraguan hardwood ceilings and black, volcanic-rock showers. Guests have free use of kayaks and surfboards, and the beach is only 50m away. Full spa services are also available. The house can accommodate up to six people, and cheaper weekly and monthly rates are available.
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Eating
The quality of fare in Jacó is surprisingly good, and aside from the Quepos and Manuel Antonio area, the city proudly boasts the most eclectic offering of international cuisine on the central Pacific coast. While the vast majority of eateries cater primarily to Western palettes, there are still a few local spots that have weathered the storm of change.
It’s worth pointing out that hours can fluctuate wildly, especially in the rainy season when many shops close sporadically, so it’s best to eat early.
BUDGET
If you’re counting your colones, head to Más X Menos (Map; Av Pastor Díaz), a Western-style supermarket that has an impressive selection of fresh produce, local and international culinary items and a surprisingly good outdoors section. And for the record, the name is pronounced mas por menos, which means ‘more for less.’
Soda Flor (Map; Av Pastor Díaz, north of Calle La Central; casados ₡2000-3000) This Jacó institution is a perennial favorite of locals and budget travelers alike. Remarkably, the menu hasn’t changed in years despite the fact that nearly every other place in town is now offering everything from sushi to sirloin. Food is fresh, tasty, cheap and 100% Costa Rican, and the portions here are huge.
Pancho Villa’s (Map; cnr Av Pastor Díaz & Calle Hicaco; dishes ₡2500-5000) The food here certainly isn’t gourmet by any stretch of the imagination, but it caters to every conceivable taste from Tico and Western to Asian and Mexican. Even if you skip dinner, you’ll probably end up here at some point since the kitchen is open until the wee hours of the morning.
MIDRANGE
Bar Restaurante Colonial (Map; cnr Av Pastor Díaz & Calle Bohío; dishes ₡3000-5000) Centered on a large bar facing the alfresco table settings, this breezy tapas-style bar and restaurant is perfect for some light noshing followed up by a crafted cocktail or two. Fast-food staples are balanced out by local seafood options, while signature drinks make excellent use of regional liquors and fresh fruit juices.
Taco Bar (Map; mains ₡3000-6000) A one-stop shop for Mexican, seafood, salads and smoothies. Get your drink with the gargantuan 1L sizes, or your greens at the salad bar featuring more than 20 different kinds of exotic and leafy combinations. And of course, there’s the obligatory fish taco, which may be one of the planet’s greatest food combinations.
Tsunami Sushi (Map; Av Pastor Díaz, north of Calle Cocal; sushi ₡3500-6500) If you’ve got a hankering for raw fish, don’t miss Tsunami, a modern and lively restaurant that serves up an exquisite assortment of sushi, sashimi and Californian rolls. The Far East may be a long way away, but the nearby Pacific is home to some seriously tasty sport fish, such as dolphinfish, tuna and wahoo.