Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [304]
Makanda by the Sea (2777-0442; www.makanda.com; studios/villas incl breakfast from US$265/400; ) Comprised of just six villas and five studios, Makanda has an unmatched air of intimacy and complete privacy. Villa 1 (the largest) will take your breath away – the entire wall is open to the rainforest and the ocean. The other villas and studios are air-conditioned and enclosed, though they draw upon the same minimalistic, Eastern-infused design schemes. The grounds are also home to a beautiful infinity pool and Jacuzzi, both offering superb views out to sea, as well as a series of flawless Japanese gardens that you can stroll through and reflect on the beauty of your surroundings. And, if you’re still not impressed, you can access a private beach by taking the 552 steps down the side of the mountain – bliss!
Arenas del Mar (2777-2777; www.arenasdelmar.com; r US$330-550; ) This visually arresting hotel and resort complex has the privilege of being one of only eight hotels belonging to the prestigious Small Distinctive Hotels of Costa Rica group. Despite the extent and breadth of the grounds, there are no more than 40 rooms on the premises, which ensures an unmatched level of personal service and attention. Arenas del Mar, which has won numerous ecotourism awards since its inception, was designed to incorporate the beauty of the natural landscape. In short, the overall effect is breathtaking, especially when you’re staring down the coastline from the lofty heights of your private open-air Jacuzzi.
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Eating & Drinking
Many hotels listed previously have good restaurants open to the public. As with sleeping, both eating and drinking establishments along this stretch are skewed upmarket. Reservations are recommended on weekends, holidays and during the busy dry season.
For more eating options in the area, see Quepos, Click here, and Manuel Antonio Village, Click here.
Café Milagro (breakfast ₡1500-2500, sandwiches ₡2000-3000) The sister cafe of the one in Quepos is an obligatory stop on the way to the park as its coffee is pure black gold. Breakfast and sandwiches are well priced and surprisingly filling, and they’ll most definitely put that extra spring in your step once you hit the trails.
El Avión (2777-3378; dishes ₡3000-6500) This unforgettable airplane bar-restaurant was constructed from the body of a 1954 Fairchild C-123. Here is where the story gets interesting – allegedly, the plane was originally purchased by the US government in the ’80s for the Nicaraguan Contras, but it never made it out of its hangar in San José because of the ensuing Iran-Contra scandal that embroiled Oliver North and his cohorts in the US government. (The plane is lovingly referred to as ‘Ollie’s Folly.’) In 2000 the enterprising owners of El Avión purchased it for the surprisingly reasonable sum of US$3000, and then proceeded to cart it piece by piece to Manuel Antonio. It now sits on the side of the main road, where it looks as if it had crash-landed into the side of the hill. It’s a great spot for a beer, guacamole and a Pacific sunset, and in the evenings during the dry season there are regular live music performances.
Ronny’s Place (2777-5120; mains ₡3000-6500; 7:30am-10pm) Head 800m west from the main drag, on the good, well-signed dirt road opposite Manuel Antonio Experts – it’s worth the trip as the view here won’t disappoint. Ronny, the bilingual Tico owner, has worked hard to make his rest stop a favorite of locals and travelers alike. Feast on a big burger or some fresh seafood, then wash down your meal with some of the best sangría in the country while enjoying views of two pristine bays and 360° of primitive jungle. While plenty of places along this stretch of road boast similar views, nowhere else can you enjoy them in such a laid-back and carefree surroundings.
Restaurante Barba Roja (2777-0331; meals ₡3500-7000; 4-10pm Mon, 10am-10pm Tue-Sun) A long-standing Manuel Antonio institution, the Barba Roja offers an excellent mix of US standards with a bit of Mexican flair.