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Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [306]

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and polished as the travel brochures suggest. And, when troops of monkeys climb down from the forest canopy to the tropical sands, you really can get up close and personal with some marvelous wildlife. So in short, the moral is to arrive in Manuel Antonio with some realistic expectations, though, more often than not, you’re going to have a memorable visit.


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Information

La Buena Nota (2777-1002), at the northern end of Manuel Antonio village, serves as an informal tourist information center. It sells maps, guidebooks, books in various languages, English-language newspapers, beach supplies and souvenirs; it also rents body boards. You can inquire here about guesthouses available for long-term stays. Look for a free copy of the English-language Quepolandia, which details everything to see and do in the area.


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Sights & Activities

There’s a good beach, Playa Espadilla, near the entrance to the park, though you need to be wary of rip currents. There are some lifeguards working at this beach, though not at the other beaches in the area.

At the far western end of Playa Espadilla, beyond a rocky headland (wear sandals) is La Playita, a gay beach frequented primarily by young men and offering nude sunbathing (use lashings of sunscreen). This point is inaccessible one hour before and after the high tide, so time your walk well or you’ll get cut off. Don’t be fooled – you do not need to pay to use the beaches as they’re outside the park.

GAY GUIDE TO MANUEL ANTONIO

For jet-setting gays the world over, Manuel Antonio is regarded as something of a dream destination.

Homosexuality has been decriminalized in Costa Rica since the 1970s, which is indeed a rarity in the all too often machismo-fueled conservative Central America. As a result, gays and lesbians have had Costa Rica on their travel wish list for decades, though the blossoming gay scene in Manuel Antonio is unlike any other in the country.

It’s not hard to understand why Manuel Antonio first started attracting gays, especially since the area is stunningly beautiful, and has long attracted liberal-minded and tolerant individuals. There is also a burgeoning artist community, a sophisticated restaurant scene and one of the country’s few nudist beaches.

So, without further ado, here is your concise gay guide to Manuel Antonio…

Sights & Activities

During the daylight hours, the epicenter of gay Manuel Antonio is the famous La Playita, one of the few beaches in Costa Rica where nude sunbathing and skinny dipping are tolerated. Although there are a few women here, who come to sunbathe topless in relative safety and comfort, La Playita is widely regarded as a playful pick-up scene for gay men on the prowl.

Sleeping

A significant number of hotels in the Manuel Antonio area advertise themselves as being gay-friendly. Even at the ones that don’t, it is rather unlikely that you’ll face any outright discrimination. Of course, if you want to enjoy the freedom and peace of mind that comes with staying at exclusively gay accommodations, then look no further than Hotel Casa Blanca (2777-0523; http://hotel-casablanca.server1.de/en_welcome.shtml; r/apt/ste US$100/140/220; ). With more than two decades in this business, Casa Blanca offers an assortment of pools, hot tubs and sundecks to help create a flirtatious yet light-hearted resort ambience. Accommodations are in a variety of rooms, apartments and suites that cater to differing group sizes and budgets.

Eating & Drinking

The Manuel Antonio area has always been proud to host one of the most sophisticated and cosmopolitan restaurant scenes on the central Pacific coast. While there are no exclusively gay restaurants and bars, you’ll have no problems enjoying a romantic dinner and drinks at any of the upmarket listings we provide in this section. However, you should use a bit of discretion at any of the local spots since some rural Costa Ricans may not be accustomed to public displays of affection, especially from gays and lesbians.

Snorkeling gear, body boards and

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