Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [308]
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PARQUE NACIONAL MANUEL ANTONIO
Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio was declared a national park in 1972, preserving it (with just minutes to spare) from being bulldozed and razed to make room for a coastal development project. Although Manuel Antonio was enlarged to its present-day size of 16 sq km in 2000, it is still the country’s second-smallest national park. Space remains a premium, and as this is one of Central America’s top tourist destinations, you’re going to have to break free from the camera-clicking tour groups and actively seek out your own idyllic spot of sand.
With that said, Manuel Antonio is absolutely stunning, and on a good day, at the right time, it’s easy to convince yourself that you’ve died and gone to a coconut-filled paradise. The park’s clearly marked trail system winds through rainforest-backed tropical beaches and rocky headlands, and the views across the bay to the pristine outer islands are unforgettable. As if this wasn’t enough of a hard sell, add to the mix iguanas, howlers, capuchins, sloths and squirrel monkeys, which may be the gosh-darn cutest little fur balls you’ve ever seen.
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Orientation & Information
Visitors must leave their vehicles in the parking lot near the national park entrance; the charge is US$3, but there have been reader reports of break-ins and thefts. Note that the road here is also very narrow and congested, so it’s suggested that you leave your car at your hotel, and take an early morning bus to the park entrance instead, then simply walk in.
The park entrance (admission US$10; 7am-4pm Tue-Sun) is a few meters south of the rotunda. Count your change carefully as many tourists complain about being ripped off by staff with sticky fingers. Here you can hire naturalist guides to take you into the park; see Tours, following, for more information.
To reach the entrance, you’ll have to wade through the Camaronera estuary, which can be anywhere from ankle- to thigh-deep, depending on the tides and the season. However, in an impressive display of opportunism, there are boaters here to transport you 100m for the small fee of about ₡500.
The ranger station and national park information center (2777-0644) is just before Playa Manuel Antonio. Drinking water is available, and there are toilets, beach showers, picnic tables and a refreshment stand. There is no camping and guards will come around in the evening to make sure that no one has remained behind.
The beaches are often numbered – most people call Playa Espadilla (outside the park) ‘1st beach,’ Playa Espadilla Sur ‘2nd beach,’ Playa Manuel Antonio ‘3rd beach,’ Playa Puerto Escondido ‘4th beach’ and Playa Playita ‘5th beach.’ Some people begin counting at Espadilla Sur, which is the first beach in the park, so it can be a bit confusing trying to figure out which beach people may be talking about. Regardless, they’re all equally pristine, and provide ample opportunities for snorkeling or restful sunbathing. There is a refreshment stand on Playa Manuel Antonio.
The average daily temperature is 27°C (80°F) and average annual rainfall is 3875mm. The dry season is not entirely dry, merely less wet, so you should be prepared for rain (although it can also be dry for days on end). Make sure you carry plenty of drinking water, sun protection and insect repellent. Pack a picnic lunch if you’re spending the day.
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Tours
Hiring a guide costs US$20 per person for a two-hour tour. The only guides allowed in the park are members of Aguila (a local association governed by the park service), who have official ID badges,