Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [316]
Cascadas Farallas (2787-8378; www.waterfallvillas.com; ste/villas from US$125/225; ) Although it’s a bit outside Dominical proper, this spiritual retreat is located beside a series of cascading waterfalls. Balinese-style suites and villas are decked out from floor to ceiling with Zen-inducing Asian art, and regular yoga and meditation sessions help guests seek peace and tranquility. To reach the property, take the San Isidro fork (just north of the Dominical turnoff) for 3km, and look out for the Balinese dragon banners marking the entrance.
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Eating & Drinking
Complejo Arena y Sol (dishes ₡1500-4500) A local eatery that serves up a hearty gallo pinto (rice and beans) breakfast spread, this is where you can carbo-load before a serious surf session. Stop by in the afternoon or evening for typical casados (cheap set meals), or the usual assortment of Western-style fast foods.
San Clemente Bar & Grill (dishes ₡2000-4500, drinks ₡500-1500) This classic Dominical watering hole complete with broken surfboards on the walls serves up big breakfasts and Tex-Mex dishes. It’s also one of the more popular places around to get absolutely tanked with like-minded travelers from around the world.
Maracutú (dishes ₡3000-5500, drinks ₡1000-2000;) The self-proclaimed ‘world-music beach bar and Italian kitchen’ serves up an eclectic culinary offering that is highlighted by some delicious vegetarian and vegan fare. Each night of the week it features a different genre of music, a good amount of which is live.
Thrusters Bar (sushi ₡4500-8000, drinks ₡500-1500) The local party people congregate here for good times around the pool tables. Next door is a small sushi bar that’s definitely worth checking out, as raw fish and tap beer are a blissful combination.
ConFusione (meals ₡5500-12,000) Italian-Latin fusion gets top billing at the Domilocos’ main dining room, which has a warm candlelit Mediterranean ambience and a nice selection of Chianti. You can stick to classics from the peninsula such as penne pasta and flatbread pizzas, stay local with freshly caught seafood and aged tenderloin, or strike a healthy balance – authentic gelato with tropical fruits.
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Getting There & Away
BUS
Buses pick up and drop off passengers along the main road in Dominical.
Quepos ₡3200; three hours; departs 7:30am, 8am, 10:30am, 1:45pm, 4pm and 5pm.
Uvita ₡800; one hour; departs 4:30am, 10:30am, noon and 6:15pm.
TAXI
Taxis to Uvita cost ₡7500 to ₡10,000, while the ride to San Isidro costs ₡12,500 to ₡15,000, and ₡27,500 to ₡30,000 for Quepos. Cars accommodate up to five people, and can be hailed easily in town from the main road.
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ESCALERAS
Escaleras, a small community scattered around a steep and narrow dirt loop-road that branches off the Costanera, is famed for its sweeping views of the coastline and the crashing surf. Of course, if you want to make it up here, you’re going to need a 4WD to navigate one of the country’s most notoriously difficult roads. Needless to say, the locals weren’t kidding when they named the place escaleras (staircase). Aside from the scenic views, travelers primarily brave the road to either have a relaxing mountain retreat in any of the places listed in this section, or to catch a ‘Movie in the Jungle’ (see boxed text).
The first entrance to Escaleras is 4km south of the San Isidro turnoff before Dominical, and the second is 4.5km past the first one. Both are on the left-hand side of the road and poorly signed.
One of the first places you’ll come to along the main road is the Bella Vista Lodge (3888-0155, in USA 800-909-4469; www.bellavistalodge.com; r/cabins incl breakfast US$45/75; ), a remote farm owned by longtime resident Woody Dyer. The lodge