Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [322]
Wondering why you’re the only one around in the pristine but untouristed Parque Internacional La Amistad
Trekking to the top of Costa Rica’s highest summit at Cerro Chirripó (Click here)
Catching a glimpse of the Maya bird of paradise in Parque Nacional Los Quetzales
Getting a history lesson at the vibrant Fiesta de los Diablitos at the Reserva Indígena Boruca (Click here)
Following the steps of one of Costa Rica’s greatest ornithologists at Los Cusingos Bird Sanctuary (see boxed text)
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History
Costa Rica’s indigenous population was almost entirely wiped out through both the direct and indirect effects of colonization. Spanish conquistadors eventually gave way to Catholic missionaries, though the end result was the same, namely the complete disruption of pre-Columbian life in the New World.
Even as late as the 20th century, indigenous groups were actively excluded from the Spanish-dominated society and pushed to the fringes. In fact, citizenship was not granted to the indigenous population until 1949, and reservations were not organized until 1977. Fortunately, in the last three decades, indigenous groups have finally been allowed to engage in their traditional languages and customs.
However, an increasing number of indigenous youths are finding themselves unable to subsist on their ancestral lands, and many are choosing to shed their native ways in favor of employment in the agricultural sector. Others have turned to the tourism sector for work, though as a population group, economic gains have been modest.
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Climate
Given its geographic diversity, the climate varies considerably throughout the southern zone. In the lowlands, it remains hot and humid year-round, with marked rainfall from mid-April through mid-December. In the highlands, however, you can expect much cooler temperatures year-round (getting as low as 4°C or 40°F at times).
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Parks & Reserves
The parks and reserves of southern Costa Rica offer great opportunities for wildlife-watching and hiking.
Cloudbridge Nature Preserve A tiny private reserve on the slopes of Cerro Chirripó that is operated by two New Yorkers, and is the site of an ongoing reforestation project.
Parque Internacional La Amistad This enormous bi-national park is shared with Panama and protects a biological corridor of incredible ecological significance.
Parque Nacional Chirripó (Click here) Home to Costa Rica’s highest and most famous peak, which offers views of both the Pacific and the Caribbean on a clear day.
Parque Nacional Los Quetzales Costa Rica’s newest national park is extremely rich in birdlife and offers a good chance of spotting the quetzal in all its resplendent glory.
Reserva Biológica Dúrika This private reserve within Parque Internacional La Amistad is home to an independent, sustainable community committed to conservation.
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Getting There & Around
The best way to explore the region in depth is with your own form of private transportation, though you will have to leave your wheels behind if you plan on trekking through La Amistad or scaling Chirripó. Note that this chapter refers to the numbered posts along the Carretera Interamericana, which count the kilometers from San José.
Major towns in the southern zone are serviced by regular buses, though public transportation can get sporadic once you leave these major hubs.
NatureAir (www.natureair.com) and Sansa (www.sansa.com) service Palmar, which is a jumping-off point for the southern zone. Prices vary according to season and availability, but usually you can expect to pay a little less than US$75 for a flight from San José or Liberia.
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THE ROAD TO CHIRRIPÓ
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Traveling south, the road to Parque Nacional Chirripó passes through stunning countryside of redolent coffee plantations and cool cloud forests. The first major area of interest is the Zona Santa or ‘Saint’s Zone,’ a collection of highland villages that famously