Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [336]
Buses that travel between Palmar Norte, San Vito, San Isidro and San José pass by without stopping in Buenos Aires, though you can flag them down on the Interamericana. However, there is no marked bus shelter, so be sure that you are visible otherwise the bus driver won’t stop for you.
If you have your own transportation, Buenos Aires can be reached by turning off the Interamericana just south of the Del Monte plant – a paved road leads 3km north to Buenos Aires. This main road into town forks about 1km south of town: the left fork passes the Fundación Dúrika office and heads into the center of town, near the Parque Central.
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RESERVA BIOLÓGICA DúRIKA
A perfect example of sustainable tourism in action, this 75-sq-km biological reserve is home to a small but thriving community of Ticos and resident foreigners who are committed to local conservation, natural medicine and the preservation of indigenous culture. Since 1992 Dúrika has opened its arms to any travelers interested in partaking in their inspiring social experiment.
Tours of the working farm demonstrate the principles and processes of organic agriculture that Dúrika employs, such as fertilizer made from chili peppers. Guests can also arrange short hikes into the reserve, day-long forays to the Cabécar indigenous village of Ujarrás, and/or multiday treks. Travelers with a strong interest in indigenous cultures or medicinal plants should inquire about the Shaman Tour, a week-long journey that visits several communities and focuses on traditional healing methods.
Visitors are also welcome to stay closer to home, participating in the life of the farm, checking out local waterfalls (which fuel the community’s hydroelectric power) and otherwise exploring the grounds. Accommodations are also available in cabins (per person from US$45) of various sizes sleeping two to eight people. As an added bonus, rates include organic vegetarian meals made from locally grown foods. Note that discounted rates are available for large groups and students, and volunteer opportunities are available.
Reservations and information are available from the Fundación Dúrika office (2730-0657; www.durika.org) in Buenos Aires. If possible, it is advised that you make reservations as early as possible since accommodations fill up quickly in the high season.
Although it is possible to drive to Dúrika in a 4WD, the office in Buenos Aires can easily arrange transportation to the reserve and watch over your car while you’re staying at the reserve. This is a highly recommended option as the road out to the reserve is extremely challenging and potentially dangerous, especially if there has been heavy rainfall.
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RESERVA INDÍGENA BORUCA
The picturesque valley of the Río Grande de Térraba is the setting for the various towns that comprise the indigenous reserve of Brunka (Boruca) peoples. At first glance it is difficult to differentiate these towns from a typical Tico village, aside from a few artisans selling their handiwork. In fact, these towns hardly cater to the tourist trade, which is one of the main reasons why traditional Brunka life is continuing on without much distraction.
In any case, be particularly sensitive when visiting indigenous communities – always dress modestly, avoid taking photographs of people without asking permission, and take time to appreciate the fact that these living communities are struggling to maintain their traditional culture amid a changing world.
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History
Historians believe that the present-day Brunka have evolved out of several different indigenous groups, including the Coto, Quepos, Turrucaca, Burucac and Abubaes, whose territories stretched all the way to the Península de Osa in pre-Columbian times. Today, however, the entire Brunka population is largely confined to the small villages of Rey Curré, which is bisected