Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [338]
However, for a more in-depth understanding of the Brunka culture and lifestyle, it’s recommended that you arrange a homestay through Pedro Rojas Morales (506-362-2545; saribu@yahoo.com). A soft-spoken Brunka artist who is certainly a local expert, Señor Morales can help you arrange a wide range of activities on the reservation. Prices are negotiable.
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Shopping
The Brunka are celebrated craftspeople and their traditional art plays a leading role in the survival of their culture. While most people make their living from agriculture, some indigenous people have begun producing fine handicrafts for tourists. The tribe is most famous for its ornate masks, carved from balsa or cedar, and sometimes colored with natural dyes and acrylics. Brunka women also use pre-Columbian backstrap looms to weave colorful, natural cotton bags, placemats and other textiles.
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Getting There & Away
Buses (₡1650, one hour) leave the central market in Buenos Aires at noon and 3:30pm daily, traveling to Boruca via a very poor dirt road. The bus returns the following morning, which makes Boruca difficult for a day trip relying on public transportation. A taxi from Buenos Aires to Boruca is about ₡10,000.
Drivers will find a better road that leaves the Interamericana about 3km south of Curré – look for the sign. In total, it’s about 8km to Boruca from Curré, though the going is slow, and a 4WD is recommended.
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PALMAR
At the intersection of the country’s two major highways, the unremarkable village of Palmar is a transportation hub that serves as a gateway to the Osa peninsula and Golfo Dulce (for more information, Click here). Although the town also serves as an important banana-growing center, for the average traveler there is little reason to spend any more time here than it takes to get off the plane or change buses. Quite simply, it’s a hot, dusty and altogether uneventful place.
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Orientation & Information
Palmar is actually split in two – to get from Palmar Norte to Palmar Sur, take the Interamericana southbound over the Río Grande de Térraba bridge, then take the first right beyond the bridge. Most facilities are in Palmar Norte, clustered around the intersection of the Carretera Interamericana and the Costanera Sur (Pacific Coast Hwy), while Palmar Sur is the locale of the airstrip.
In Palmar Norte you can grab some cash at the Banco Coopelianza (8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat) or Banco Popular (2786-7033), both on the Interamericana.
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Sights
Lack of charm aside, Palmar is one of the best sites in the country to see the granite spheres, or esferas de piedra, a legacy of pre-Columbian cultures – some of which exceed 2m in diameter. They are scattered all over town, including at the airstrip – some of the largest and most impressive are in front of the peach-colored el colegio (school) on the Interamericana.
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Sleeping & Eating
You’ll not want to linger in Palmar, but if you miss a connection you may find yourself spending the night.
Hotel Vista al Cerro (2786-6663; www.vistaalcerro.com; s/d from US$30/35, apt negotiable; ) On the western edge of town, the Vista al Cerro is a modest family-run hotel with all the required amenities and a decent restaurant to boot. Long-term apartment rentals are available if you find yourself needing a cheap base in the region.
Brunka Lodge (2786-7489; www.brunkalodge.com; s/f from US$35/45; ) The Brunka Lodge is undoubtedly the most inviting option in Palmar Norte. Sun-filled, clean-swept bungalows are clustered around a swimming pool and a popular, pleasant open-air restaurant, and all rooms have hot-water bathrooms, cable TV and high-speed internet connections.
Self-caterers will want to visit the Supermercado Térraba (Transportes Térraba bus stop) before heading to the Osa, as shopping opportunities are