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Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [34]

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arrive during the peak dry season when trails are less muddy and more accessible. An added bonus of visiting between December and February is that many of the wintering migrant birds are still hanging around. A trip after the peak season means fewer birds, but is a stupendous time to see dried forests transform into vibrant greens and it’s also when resident birds begin nesting.

Dr Alexander Skutch is famous for the Guide to the Birds of Costa Rica, but he also wrote several other contemplative books about his feathered friends, including A Naturalist in Costa Rica and The Minds of Birds.

ENDANGERED SPECIES

As expected in a country with unique habitats and widespread logging, there are numerous species whose populations are declining or in danger of extinction. Currently, the number-one threat to most of Costa Rica’s endangered species is habitat destruction, followed closely by hunting and trapping.

LOOK BUT DON’T JUMP IN

In 2006 swimming with dolphins and whales in Costa Rica was made illegal. It is also illegal to attempt to capture or harass them. Dolphin- and whale-watching tours have become increasingly popular in recent years, leading to an explosion in the number of operators. Unfortunately, too many operators are out for a quick buck, often at the expense of the animals.

In a survey conducted by the Cetacean Society International a few years back, 17 of the operators refused to cooperate by answering survey questions, and all of the tour companies investigated made mistakes such as harassing animals, not carrying life jackets and having motor problems. Only one company had knowledgeable guides that could provide ‘reasonable natural-history information.’ Lacking experience and knowledge, many operators have been conducting their tours without due attention to the integrity of the star players – the animals themselves.

In short, too much attention from tourists has caused some dolphins and whales to stress out. Research indicates that in some heavily touristed areas, dolphins are leaving their natural habitat in search of calmer seas. Some scientists believe that having humans at close proximity in the water disrupts feeding, nursing and other behavior. There is growing concern about the long-term human impact on the health of these marine mammals. The 2006 legislation banning swimming with marine mammals was enacted with their best interests in mind.

When your boat comes across these amazing creatures of the sea, do not jump in the water. From the comfort of the boat you can have an awe-inspiring and longer-lasting experience (the dolphins and whales usually swim away quickly when humans are in the water, but they might stay and swim around a boat indefinitely). And more importantly, you won’t disturb the peace of these gentle giants.

Costa Rica’s four species of sea turtles – olive ridley, leatherback, green and hawksbill – deservedly get a lot of attention. All four species are classified as endangered or critically endangered, meaning they face an imminent threat of extinction. While populations of some species are increasing, thanks to various protection programs along both coasts, the risk for these tortugas is still very real.

Destruction of habitat is a huge problem. With the exception of the leather-backs, all of these species return to their natal beach to nest. That means that the ecological state of the beach directly impacts that turtle’s ability to reproduce. All of the species prefer dark, undisturbed beaches, and any sort of development or artificial lighting (including flashlights) will inhibit nesting.

The tale of the green turtle’s rebound in Tortuguero is told in two popular books by Archie Carr: The Windward Road: Adventures of a Naturalist on Remote Caribbean Shores and The Sea Turtle: So Excellent a Fishe.

Hunting and harvesting eggs are two major causes of declining populations. Green turtles are actually hunted for their meat. Leatherbacks and olive ridleys are not killed for meat, but their eggs are considered a delicacy – an aphrodisiac no less. The hawksbill turtles are

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