Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [345]
Contact the association of guides, Asoprola (2743-1184) in Altamira to inquire about these arrangements. Rates vary depending on the size of your party and your intended course. Asoprola can also arrange food and lodging in the village of Altamira, just below the park headquarters – Click here, for more information.
Hardy adventurers can also hike to the summit of Cerro Kamuk from the village of Potrero Grande or Tres Colinas. This journey requires three days to ascend and two days to descend and – again – the services of a guide. Lodging is in tents and hikers must transport all of their own supplies and provisions.
Return to beginning of chapter
Visiting Indigenous Groups
Besides the countless animal species, La Amistad is also home to five different indigenous reservations for the Cabécar and Bribrí groups. These tribes originally inhabited lands on the Caribbean coast (and many still do), but over the past century they have migrated west into the mountains and as far as the Pacific coast. It is possible to visit the Cabécar via the Reserva Biológica Dúrika and the Bribrí via ATEC (Click here) in Puerto Viejo de Talamanca.
The reserves see few foreign visitors, and as a result the Cabécar and Bribrí tend to view tourists with equal parts respect and awe – at times you will be amazed at the hospitality of your hosts. Although they are tough peoples that have made a life for themselves in an unforgiving habitat, the Cabécar and Bribrí have smiles that could melt gold.
Of course, you should still make an effort to respect the sensibilities of your hosts. Although some men and women still walk around topless in the village, these are still fairly conservative societies, and it’s recommended that you cover up as a sign of respect.
With regard to photography, most villagers will be happy to pose for a photo, but you should always ask before sticking your camera where it doesn’t belong. Generally speaking, you will not be asked to pay for a photo, though it’s best to ask your guide what is expected from you.
Tourism has a long way to develop in the region, which is one reason why a visit to a Cabécar or Bribrí village is so refreshing.
Return to beginning of chapter
Wildlife-Watching
Although most of Parque Internacional La Amistad is inaccessible terrain high up in the Talamanca, the park is home to a recorded 90 mammal species and more than 400 bird species. The park has the nation’s largest population of Baird’s tapirs (see boxed text), as well as giant anteaters, all six species of neotropical cats – jaguar, puma (mountain lion), margay, ocelot, oncilla (tiger cat) and jaguarundi – and many more-common mammals.
Bird species (49 unique) that have been sighted – more than half of the total in Costa Rica – include the majestic but extremely rare harpy eagle (see boxed text, opposite). In addition, the park protects 115 species of fish, 215 different reptiles and amphibians, as well as innumerable insect species.
Return to beginning of chapter
SLEEPING & EATING
Besides the options listed here, see also the Reserva Biológica Dúrika, which is contained within the borders of the park.
All of the ranger stations, including Altamira, have camping facilities (per person US$5). There are basic hostels (per person US$6) at Santa María de Pittier and at the base of Cerro Kamuk. These camps and hostels offer drinking water and toilets, and – in the case of Altamira – electricity. All food and supplies must be packed in and out.
Asoprola (2743-1184) can make arrangements for lodging in local homes in the village of Altamira for a negotiable fee. For an intimate look at