Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [350]
FLOATING FOREST
As many as seven different species of mangrove, or manglar, thrive in Costa Rica. Comprising the vast majority of tropical coastline, mangroves play a crucial role in protecting it from erosion. Mangroves also serve as a refuge for countless species of animals, especially fish, crab, shrimp and mollusks, and as a sanctuary for roosting birds seeking protection from terrestrial predators.
Mangroves are unique among plants in that they have distinct methods for aeration (getting oxygen into the system) and desalination (getting rid of the salt that is absorbed with the water). Red mangroves, which are the most common species in Costa Rica, use their web of aboveground prop roots for aerating the plant’s sap system. Other species, such as the black mangrove, have vertical roots that stick out above the mud, while buttonwood mangroves have elaborate buttresses.
The most amazing feature of the mangrove is its tolerance for salt, which enables the plant to thrive in brackish and saltwater habitats. Some species, such as the Pacific coast black mangrove, absorb the salinated water, then excrete the salt through their leaves and roots, leaving behind visible crystals. Other species filter the water as it is absorbed – the mangrove root system is so effective as a filter that the water from a cut root is drinkable!
Despite their ecological importance, mangrove habitats the world over are being increasingly threatened by expanding human habitats. Furthermore, mangrove wood is an easily exploitable source of fuel and tannin (used in processing leather), which has also hastened their destruction. Fortunately in the Humedal Nacional Térraba-Sierpe, this fragile yet vitally important ecosystem is receiving the respect and protection that it deserves.
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Information
The Térraba-Sierpe reserve has no facilities for visitors, though the lodges listed in the following section can organize tours to help you explore the wetlands.
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Sleeping
Veragua River House (2788-1460; www.hotelveragua.com/en; 3km north of Sierpe; r from US$55; ) This wonderfully memorable bed and breakfast is centered on a Victorian-style river house that is hidden behind blooming hibiscus and shady fruit trees. Inside are inviting common areas decked out with antique furnishing and original artwork, and there is even a mock period library, a pool table and a discrete plunge pool. Guests stay in the four garden bungalows, which feature hand-painted tiles that are the work of the talented owner.
Estero Azul Lodge (2786-7422; esteroazul@hotmail.com; 2km north of Sierpe; r per person incl meals from US$90; ) Named for the peaceful flowing river, the Estero Azul Lodge is set on several hectares of primary forest along the road to Palmar. Safari-style rooms have hardwood floors, screened porches and tile bathrooms, while delectable gourmet meals highlight fresh river fish and local seafood.
Sábalo Lodge (2770-1457; www.sabalolodge.com; r from US$95, 4-day package incl meals & tours US$545) Accepting less than 10 guests at a time in order to maximize the chance of getting up close and personal with wildlife, this highly personalized lodge receives much love from our readers. Guests are treated to a variety of activities, including guided hikes, horseback riding and ocean kayaking, and a portion of your accommodation fee helps to fund a local school. The lodge is only accessible by boat, and transportation from Sierpe is included in the package price.
Río Sierpe Lodge (2253-5203, 8384-5595; www.riosierpelodge.com; 3-/4-day package incl meals & tours per person from US$245/325) The Río Sierpe