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Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [355]

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guests receive a warm welcome, as well as three square meals a day of hearty, home-cooked Costa Rican fare.

Hotel Jinetes de Osa (8371-1598, 2236-5637, in USA 800-317-0333; www.costaricadiving.com; s/d from US$66/110; ) The reasonably priced Jinetes de Osa boasts a choice bayside location that is literally a few steps from the ocean – you can sip your morning coffee from your hotel room while staring out across the bay. Jinetes also has a canopy tour, as well as one of the peninsula’s top PADI dive facilities, which means that guests have plenty of adrenaline-soaked activities on the roster. In fact, true diving aficionados would balk at staying elsewhere, especially since discount dive packages with full equipment rental are always available.

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Pirate Cove (2234-6154; www.piratecovecostarica.com; r per person from US$90; ) Breezy, tent-like bungalows and spacious hardwood cabins both offer an element of laid-back luxury at the appropriately named Pirate Cove (Sir Francis Drake wasn’t exactly the most honorable of captains!). With private terraces that are strung up with hammocks, most guests seem content to just swing the day away, though there are 2km of deserted coastline in front of the property to explore. There is also a very reputable dive center on the premises should you feel the need to move beyond the beach.

Aguila de Osa Inn (2296-2190; www.aguiladeosa.com; s/d 2-night package US$623/1048) On the east side of the Río Agujitas, this swanky lodge consists of roomy quarters with shining wood floors, cathedral ceilings and private decks overlooking the ocean. The vast centerpiece of the lodge, however, is the comfortable yet elegant open-air rancho (small house-like building), which serves up signature cocktails and innovative bocas (savory bar snacks) throughout the day and into the evening. Diving and sportfishing charters are available to guests, as are significant discounts if you extend your stay beyond two nights.

Drake Bay Wilderness Resort (2770-8012; www.drakebay.com; 4-day package per person from US$770; ) Sitting pretty on Punta Agujitas, this relaxed resort occupies the optimal piece of real estate in all of Bahía Drake. Naturalists will be won over by the lovely landscaping, from flowering trees to the ocean-fed pool, while history buffs will appreciate the memorial to Drake’s landing. Accommodations are in comfortable cabins, which have mural-painted walls and private patios with ocean views, while family-style meals feature ingredients from your congenial host’s organic farm.

La Paloma Lodge (2239-7502; www.lapalomalodge.com; 3-/4-/5-day package from US$1100/1245/1390; ) Perched on a lush hillside, this exquisite lodge provides guests with an incredible panorama of ocean and forest, all from the comfort of the sumptuous, stylish quarters. Rooms have shiny hardwood floors and queen-sized orthopedic beds, draped in mosquito netting, while shoulder-high walls in all the bathrooms offer rainforest views while you bathe. Each room has a large balcony (with hammock, of course) that catches the cool breeze off the ocean.

Drake Bay Rainforest Chalet (8382-1619; www.drakebayholiday.com; 3-/4-/5-/6-/7-day package from US$1150/1275/1400/1525/1650) Set on 18 hectares of pristine rainforest, this jungle getaway is a remote, romantic adventure. Huge French windows provide a panoramic view of the surrounding jungle, enjoyed from almost every room in the house. Sleeping quarters have a king-sized bed with giant mosquito net, flanked by a luxurious tile bathroom with a sunken shower and a decadent two-person hot tub. In an innovative twist on luxury, the Moroccan-themed kitchen is fully stocked for self-catering, though chef service is available for the culinary impaired.


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Getting There & Away

AIR

Departing from San José, NatureAir (www.natureair.com) and Sansa (www.sansa.com) have daily flights to the Drake airstrip, which is 2km north of Agujitas. Prices vary according to season and availability, though you can expect to pay around US$100 to/from San José.

Alfa Romeo

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