Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [357]
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Orientation & Information
A public trail follows the coastline for the entire spectacular stretch, and it’s conducive to spotting wonderful wildlife. Among the multitude of bird species, you’re likely to spot (and hear) squawking scarlet macaw, often traveling in pairs, and the hooting chestnut-mandible toucan. White-faced capuchin and howler monkeys inhabit the treetops, while eagle-eyed hikers might also spot a sloth or a kinkajou.
The only way to get around the area is by boat or by foot, which means that travelers are more or less dependent on their lodges.
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Sights & Activities
Scenic little inlets punctuate this entire route, each with a wild, windswept beach. Just west of Punta Agujitas, a short detour off the main trail leads to the picturesque Playa Cocalito, a secluded cove perfect for sunning, swimming and body surfing. With no lodges in the immediate vicinity, it’s often deserted. Playa Las Caletas, in front of the Corcovado Adventures Tent Camp, is excellent for snorkeling.
Further south, the Río Claro empties out into the ocean. Water can be waist-deep or higher, and the current swift, so take care when wading across. This is also the start of the Río Claro trail, which leads inland into the 400-hectare Punta Río Claro Wildlife Refuge (formerly known as the Marenco Rainforest Reserve) and passes a picturesque waterfall along the way. Be aware that there are two rivers known as the Río Claro: one is located near Bahía Drake, while the other is inside Corcovado near Sirena station.
South of Río Claro, the Playa San Josecito is the longest stretch of white-sand beach on this side of the Península de Osa. It is popular with swimmers, snorkelers and sunbathers, though you’ll rarely find it crowded.
From here you can access another private reserve, La Selva. A short, steep climb leads from the beach to a lookout point, offering a spectacular view over the treetops and out to the ocean. A network of trails continues inland, and eventually connects La Selva to the Río Claro reserve. Be advised that La Selva does not have any facilities: the trails are not labeled; there is no water or maps; you’ll likely meet nobody along the way. If you choose to continue past the lookout point, make sure you have food, water and a compass.
The border of Parque Nacional Corcovado is about 5km south of here (it takes three to four hours to hike the entire distance from Agujitas to Corcovado). The trail is more overgrown as it gets closer to the park, but it’s a well-traveled route.
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Sleeping & Eating
Reservations are recommended in the dry season (mid-November to the end of April). High-season rates are quoted; prices are per person, including three meals, unless otherwise stated. Many places in this area don’t have electricity (pack a flashlight) or hot water. Stand-alone eating options are virtually nonexistent in this part of the peninsula.
With prior arrangements, all of the accommodations listed in this section provide transportation (free or for a charge) from either Agujitas or the airstrip in Drake.
Las Caletas Lodge (8381-4052, 8326-1460; www.caletas.co.cr; r per person from US$70; ) This adorable little hotel is set on the picturesque beach of the same name and consists of five cozy wooden cabins that are awash with sweeping views. The Swiss-Tico owners are warm hosts who are passionate about environmental sustainability, which means you can rest easy knowing that solar and hydroelectric power provides electricity around the clock.
Corcovado Adventures Tent Camp (8384-1679; www.corcovado.com; r per person from US$80, 3-/4-day package per person US$400/535; ) Less than an hour’s walk from Drake brings you to this fun, family-run spot. It’s like camping, but comfy: spacious, walk-in tents are set up on covered platforms and fully equipped with sturdy wood furniture. Twenty hectares of rainforest offer plenty of opportunity for exploration, and the beachfront setting is excellent