Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [365]
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Black Turtle Lodge (2735-5005; www.blackturtlelodge.com; Playa Platanares; s/d from US$85/140; ) A peaceful yoga retreat along Playa Platanares, this ecolodge offers the choice of two-story cabinas, which have magnificent views over the treetops to the Golfo Dulce, and the less-spacious cabinettas (small cabins) nestled into the tropical garden below. All have bamboo furniture and hardwood floors, but the cabinettas share hot-water bathrooms.
Iguana Lodge (2735-5205; www.iguanalodge.com; Playa Platanares; casitas per person US$155, villas US$450; ) This luxurious lodge fronting Playa Platanares has the most architecturally alluring cabins in the area: four two-story bungalows have huge breezy decks, bamboo furniture, orthopedic beds draped in mosquito netting and lovely stone bathrooms with garden showers. Rates include three delectable meals a day: the creative cuisine is a highlight. If you’re traveling in a large group, consider renting the three-room Villa Villa Kula, a charming tropical colonial house with a fully stocked kitchen.
Crocodile Bay Resort (2735-5631; www.crocodilebay.com; Playa Platanares; 3-day all-inclusive fishing package per person from US$2195; ) Sportfishing is never a cheap proposition, but this all-inclusive anglers’ resort offers competitive packages to help cushion the blow to your wallet. Accommodations are in fairly standard cabinas that are scattered around an attractive pool and well-cared-for gardens. But, you’re here to fish, which is an easy prospect given the 40-plus fishing-boat fleet, highly trained crews and veritable arsenal of professional-grade gear at your disposal.
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Eating
The restaurant scene in Puerto Jiménez is surprisingly subdued considering all the tourist traffic passing through. While there is no shortage of cheap sodas serving up typical Tico staples, for slightly fancier fare your options are much more limited.
Stock up on food items, bug repellent and other necessities at the Super La Esquina or the smaller Super 96.
Café La Onda (light meals ₡1000-3500) A funky and eclectic travelers’ cafe that’s equally suited for chilling out or chatting up, la Onda sets the stage with homemade pastries accompanied by excellent coffees and fruit smoothies. While you’re a long way from Manhattan, bagels and deli items add a dash of cosmopolitanism to sleepy Port Jim.
Restaurant Carolina (dishes ₡1500-4000) This is the hub in Puerto Jiménez. Expats, nature guides, tourists and locals all gather here for food, drinks and plenty of carousing. The food is famous locally and the fresh-fruit drinks and cold beers go down pretty easily on a hot day.
Pollosa (2735-5667; meals ₡2000-4500; noon-9pm Sun-Fri) Pollosa is renowned among locals for juicy, delectable rotisserie chicken, but it also has a good selection of salads, sandwiches and spaghetti. Take-away is available, making this is an excellent option for picnicking.
Il Giardino (2735-5129; meals ₡3500-6000; 10am-2pm & 5-10pm) The specialties of the house at Il Giardino are homemade pasta and fresh seafood. Considering that you’re on the edge of the wilderness in a far-flung corner of Costa Rica, there is a fair measure of Italian authenticity here.
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Drinking
You can get decent Mexican food at Juanita’s (5pm-2am), but it’s more popular for the margaritas. Iguana Iguana (4pm-midnight), at the cabins of the same name, is another popular watering hole, especially on weekends when the locals join in the action.
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Shopping
Artes de Osa (2735-5429; 8am-5pm) This cutesy souvenir shop has the usual knick-knacks