Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [394]
It was the building of the railroad, beginning in 1871, that would solidify the area’s West Indian accent, with the arrival of thousands of former Jamaican slaves in search of employment. The plan was to build a port at the site of a grand old lemon tree (hence the name, Puerto Limón) on the Caribbean Sea, so that coffee barons in the Central Valley could more easily export their crops to Europe. The railway was intended to unify the country, but it was a source of segregation as well. Blacks were not allowed to vote or travel freely around Costa Rica until 1949. Out of isolation, however, sprung an independent culture, with its own musical and gastronomic traditions, and even its own unique language, a creole called Mekatelyu – which is still spoken today.
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Climate
The fact that there is no traditional dry season is a mixed blessing. It rains throughout the year, though rains tend to be slighter in February and March, as well as September and October – this latter period happens to conveniently occur when the rest of the country is getting soaked. There’s a steady year-round temperature of about 27°C (80°F) to 8°C (46°F). Surfers, note: the biggest swells hit the southern Caribbean from December to March.
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Parks & Reserves
Many refuges and parks line the Caribbean coast. Some of the most popular include:
Parque Nacional Cahuita A patch of coastal jungle is home to armadillos, monkeys and sloths, while the protected reef is one of the most important on the coast.
Parque Nacional Tortuguero Jungle canals obscure snoozing caimans, while howler, spider and capuchin monkeys traipse overhead. The star attraction, however, are the sea turtles, which nest here from March to October.
Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Barra del Colorado (Click here) A remote park that draws fishing enthusiasts who come to hook species such as snook, tarpon and gar.
Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo A rich rainforest and wetland tucked away along the country’s southeastern border, with rivers full of manatee, caiman and croc.
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Dangers & Annoyances
The Caribbean coast region has had a bad reputation over the years for being more dangerous than other parts of Costa Rica. In reality, crime levels against tourists are no higher here than in any other part of the country. Still, as anywhere else, exercise common sense.
A bigger problem is the sea: rip tides get ferocious (even in shallow water) and, in the north, sharks are a regular presence. Swim in safe areas – and if you’re unsure, ask a local.
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Getting There & Around
When traveling to Puerto Limón and the southern Caribbean, it’s easy enough to hop on any of the regular buses from San José. Buses also connect most towns along the coast, from Sixaola, on the Panamanian border, to Puerto Limón. The roads are in good condition, so driving is also an option.
The north is a little trickier. Much of the area is only linked up by waterways, making boats the sole means of transport. Puerto Limón, Tortuguero and Barra del Colorado all have landing strips, but only Tortuguero has daily commercial flights.
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THE ATLANTIC SLOPE
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The idea was simple: build a port on the Caribbean coast and connect it to the Central Valley by railroad, thus opening up important shipping routes for the country’s soaring coffee production. Construction began in 1871, through 150km of dense jungles and muddy mountainsides along the Atlantic slope. Things didn’t exactly go according to