Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [396]
Mammals are difficult to spot due to the lush vegetation, though deer, monkeys and tepezcuintle (agouti, the park’s mascot) are frequently seen. Jaguars and ocelots are present but rare.
HIKING
From Zurquí, there is a short, steep 1km trail that leads to a viewpoint. You can also follow the Sendero Histórico, which follows the crystal-clear Río Hondura to its meeting point with the Río Sucio (Dirty River), whose yellow waters carry volcanic minerals.
From Quebrada González, you can follow the 2.8km Sendero La Botella (about 90 minutes) past a series of waterfalls into Patria Canyon. There are several other unmarked trails that lead through this area, including a few places where you are permitted to camp, though there are no facilities.
Keep an eye out for the distinctive Gunnera plants, which quickly colonize newly exposed parts of montane rainforest. The huge leaves can protect a person from a sudden downpour – hence the plant’s nickname sombrilla de pobre (poor man’s umbrella).
CLIMBING VOLCÁN BARVA
Climbing Volcán Barva is a strenuous five-hour round-trip adventure along a reasonably well-maintained trail. Because of its relative inaccessibility, there is a good chance you will be alone. Begin on the western side of the park, north of Heredia, at Paso Llano. From there a signed track climbs to the summit. Trails are often muddy, and you should be prepared for rain any time of the year.
The trail leads to three lagoons – Lagos Danta, Barva and Copey – at the volcano’s summit, and several spur trails lead to waterfalls and other scenic spots along the way. From Barva, it is possible to follow overgrown, poorly marked ‘trails’ all the way to Estación Biológica La Selva and La Virgen – an activity which takes around four days. Hire a guide for this one – as hikers have gotten seriously lost and there are no facilities en route.
If you’re visiting on a day trip, get to the entrance as early as possible as afternoons tend to be cloudy. Nighttime temperatures can drop below freezing. Camping is allowed at basic campsites (per person US$3) near the chilly but impossibly scenic summit, though you will need to bring your own drinking water.
VOLUNTEERING
Near Monte de la Cruz, in the Barva sector, the Cerro Dantas Wildlife Refuge (www.cerrodantas.co.cr) is an education facility that is always seeking volunteers to help out with a variety of administrative, maintenance and research duties. Contact the organization through their website for details.
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Getting There & Away
Both the Zurquí and Quebrada González stations are on Hwy 32 between San José and Guápiles. Frequent buses between the two cities can drop you off at these, but pick-up on the road is dangerous and difficult (though not impossible).
The Barva station can be reached by following the decent paved road north from Heredia through Barva and on to San José de la Montaña, Sacramento and, ultimately, Paso Llano, where a signed, 3km-long, 4WD-only trail leads north to the entrance. If you don’t have a car, you can take a public bus from Heredia (Calle 1, between Avs 4 and 6; ₡400). These depart at 5:25am, 6:25am, noon and 4pm on weekdays; 6:40am, 11am and 4pm on weekends. For a day-trip, it’s best to take the earliest buses. Note: make sure you’re catching a bus that goes all the way to Paso Llano – or you’ll be left more than 15km from the park’s entrance.
El Ceibo and Magasay can be accessed via rough roads from La Virgen.
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RAINFOREST AERIAL TRAM
The brainchild of biologist Don Perry, a pioneer of rainforest canopy research, the Rainforest Aerial Tram (2257-5961; www.rainforestrams.com; adult/student & child US$55/28, full-day tour with lunch & guided hike US$89; ) is a worthwhile splurge if you want to visit the heights of the forest canopy in a gondola. The 2.6km ride takes 40 minutes each way, affording unusual plant-spotting and bird-watching opportunities. The fee includes a knowledgeable guide, which is helpful since the