• Choose a category
• All
• Classic-Fiction

By Root 1553 0

and Herbie, has four little wood cabinas on a two-hectare hillside that rises above the Río Blanco. It is devoid of niceties such as cable TV and wi-fi – making this a throwback to a time when travel to Costa Rica was all about unplugging. Late-night entertainment consists of listening to frogs croak and watching the lightning bugs put on a spectacle. The best part: the inn has a private trail that leads down to the river, where a spectacular swimming hole awaits. The helpful owners can organize off-the-beaten path area hikes as well as excursions to Tortuguero. Call ahead for reservations; additional meals (including vegetarian options) can be arranged. It is located 7km west of Guápiles. From Hwy 32, turn south onto the dirt road immediately west of the Río Blanco bridge. Follow the rocky road for 1km.

Return to beginning of chapter

Eating

Deleites (100m west of Hotel y Cabinas Wilson) An attractive, well-stocked bakery sells, cookies, cakes, bread and even cappuccino.

Soda Buenos Aires (2710-1768; Hwy 32; Mon-Sat) Situated 1km west of Guápiles, on the south side of the main highway, is this popular soda (cheap, informal lunch counter) that comes highly recommended for its well-prepared fish dishes.

El Rubio (2710-2323; 100m north of Hwy 32; mains ₡1800-4800) The clutter of pick-up trucks out front is a clue that you have stumbled onto this popular family eatery. It offers a wide selection of grilled fish and roasted meats (the churrasco – flank steak – is truly excellent). And there is a good selection of bocas (savory bar snacks), including our favorite: chifrijo, a pile of rice and pinto beans studded with fried pork and capped with fresh tomato salsa and corn chips. From the Burger King, go 100m north, then 100m east on the dirt road.

Restaurante El Campesino (Hwy 32; mains ₡2700-5000; 7am-8pm Tue-Sun; ) You’ll find good ol’ country cooking at this wholesome family spot (no alcohol sold) across the highway from the Burger King. Dip into tasty chorreadas (savory fresh-corn pancakes), arroz con pollo (chicken and rice) and torta de queso (a pile of cubed beef or chicken doused in melted cheese and served with corn tortillas).

There’s a huge Más X Menos (7am-9pm Mon-Sat, until 8pm Sun) supermarket, 200m north of the bus terminal.

Return to beginning of chapter

Getting There & Away

The bus terminal is about 200m north of the main highway from the Burger King turn-off.

Cariari (Guapileños; 2766-6141) ₡400; 20 minutes; departs every 15 minutes from 6am to 10pm.

Puerto Limón via Guácimo & Siquirres (Tracasa) ₡1600; two hours; departs hourly from 6am to 7pm.

Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí (Guapileños; 2766-6141) ₡800; 45 minutes; departs at 5:30am, 8am, 9am, 10:30am, noon, 1.15pm, 2:30pm, 4pm, 5pm and 6:30pm.

San José (Guapileños; 2766-6141) ₡1100; 1¼ hours; departs every 30 minutes from 6:30am to 7pm.

Return to beginning of chapter

CARIARI

pop 12,100

Due north of Guápiles, Cariari is a blue-collar, rough-around-the-edges banana town, cluttered with tin-roof shops, hardware stores, bakeries and vegetable stands. Most travelers make their way quickly through town, en route to Tortuguero. If you are headed there, this will be your last opportunity to get cash.

There’s a gas station and a branch of Banco de Costa Rica (opposite the San José bus terminal; 9am-4pm Mon-Fri), with a 24-hour ATM on the Cirrus system.

If you get stuck, spend the night at Hotel El Trópico (2767-7186; 300m north of Terminal Caribeño; d with/without air-con US$20/17; ), on the main road, which has 15 tidy rooms in a motor court-style layout with bathroom, hot showers and fans. A restaurant (7am-10pm) serves local dishes.

Return to beginning of chapter

Getting There & Away

If you are driving, the turnoff for the paved road to Cariari is about 1km east of Guápiles, at the Servicentro Santa Clara. If you are heading to Tortuguero, you can leave your car at the guarded parking by the boat dock on the Río La Suerte in La Pavona (about 30km north of Cariari).

To get to La Pavona, take the main road north out of Cariari, through Campo