Costa Rica (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Matthew Firestone [403]
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Dangers & Annoyances
Theft is a problem: take precautions against pickpockets during the day, particularly in the market and along the sea wall. In addition, people do get mugged here, so stick to well-lit main streets at night, avoiding the sea wall and Parque Vargas. If driving, park in a guarded lot and remove everything from the car.
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Sights & Activities
The city’s main attraction is the waterfront Parque Vargas, an incongruous expanse of bench-lined sidewalks beneath a lost little jungle of tall palms and tropical flowers, centered on an appealingly decrepit bandstand.
From here, you can head inland along Av 2, the pedestrian mall that caters to the cruise-ship traffic. Keep an eye out for vendors selling home-burned CDs by local bands – Limón is getting a reputation for its growing hip-hop and reggaetón scene. (A band you can definitely expect to see being hawked: Los Trinitarios, a Limón band that has been fusing calypso and salsa since the ’70s.)
From the park, it’s a pleasant walk north along the sea wall, where views of the rocky headland are set to a steady crashing of waves against the concrete jetty. After dark, this is a popular mugging and make-out spot.
There are no beaches for swimming or surfing in Limón, but if you are keen on getting in the water, Playa Bonita, 4km northwest of town, has a pleasant, sandy beach. Surfers, in the meantime, might want to hit Isla Uvita, the wild green rock that lies 1km offshore – and is blessed with one of the country’s most powerful lefts. It’s a thrilling – and punishing – reef break with 3m waves on good days. The island is a 20-minute boat ride from Limón’s main port at Moín, where you can inquire about transport.
For a variety of area tours, book an excursion with Tortuguero Wildlife Tours (2798-7027, 2758-2534; www.tortuguero-wildlife.com), which is run by the personable William Guerrero. The agency organizes – among many other trips – a combination day tour that includes a city tour of Limón, a one-hour boat ride along the Tortuguero canal, a visit to a banana plantation and a stop at a pleasant beach (per person US$45). Bilingual guides can be arranged. For other options in town, contact Coopetortuguero (2798-7029, 8865-2190, 8834-0072; coopetortuguero@gmail.com) an association of area guides.
Limón also serves as a good base from which to explore the Veragua Rainforest Research & Adventure Park.
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Festivals & Events
Festival Flores de la Diáspora Africana (Late August) A celebration of Afro-Caribbean culture. While it is centered on Puerto Limón, the festival sponsors events showcasing African heritage throughout the province and San José.
Día de la Raza (Columbus Day; October 12) Columbus’ historic landing on Isla Uvita has traditionally inspired a small carnival, with street parades, live music and dancing. The party was on hiatus for a few years but returned in 2009 to a small, but enthusiastic turn-out. It is unclear whether it will continue to be held. Inquire locally – and during this time, book hotels in advance.
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Sleeping
BUDGET
Hotels listed here are at the more wholesome end of the budget spectrum, but they can still be a little gloomy; ask to see a room and check security.
Hotel Costa del Sol (2798-0909; cnr Calle 5 & Av 5; s/d without bathroom US$9/11 d with/without air-con US$30/15; ) Limón’s best budget option is this 14-room hotel towards the north end of downtown that is staffed by friendly, young employees. Rooms with shared bathroom are grim, but new doubles with air-con are decent, brightened up by a fresh coat of watermelon-hued paint. Nicer units come equipped with TV and telephones; all have cool-water showers. Credit cards accepted.
Hotel Palace (2758-1068; 2nd fl, Calle 2 btwn Avs 2 & 3; d US$19) For seasoned budget travelers, this